coolant loss 2L petrol.

[The Great Pretender]

Cheers Mike, dark green it is if everyone can read it.

[widdowson2008]

I wish you'd use a different colour of font TGP - I really have to work hard to read it........

Any dampness around the floorwells? This would be hard to spot with all the snow/rain around but could indicate a leaking heater matrix. Best to have the system pressureised and find the source

Sorry mate, I find it easy but as you are the second to complain..........is this better............... .
Or this?

This?

Or this as it is the colour of my Bongo.

Or should you stop doing what your mom told you it would make you go blind?

W T F is wrong with BLACK

[dunslair]

quick update...rear heater matrix goosed (not hoses, actual heater matrix unit)

[missfixit70]

Give ebygum a pm? can't see too many peeps needing one? bypass it for now, if you don't get sorted I should be removing mine at some point in the not too distant future as I don't use it & I want the space for other things.

[Doone]

As you say, it can be bypassed, I've seen several with this done.

[dunslair]

Give ebygum a pm? can't see too many peeps needing one? bypass it for now, if you don't get sorted I should be removing mine at some point in the not too distant future as I don't use it & I want the space for other things.

Thanks Kirsty, one on the way from Bongobits, as a replacement. Once the broken one is out I will have a look at the problem and decide whether or not to send it off for 're-coreing'. I know I can bypass it if the replacement is no good, but I would like to keep the aircon in the back if possible, so I will just have to be patient for my next fix of bongoing, otherwise the garage bill will be even higher, by the time the system is bled and re bled etc! Wish me luck with the replacement part (the matrix part number appears to be different on the newer ones)

[dunslair]

Just a quick update on the heater matrix problem. We fitted the replacement matrix (from Bongobits.... thanks lads!) earlier this week, and the system was fully bled and new coolant etc put in yesterday by the garage we use to service the bongo. The procedure for bleeding and re filling the coolant on the 2l is thankfully much simpler than either the V6 or 2.TD. The new workshop manual gives good account (thanks Ian). We had concerns that the part ref for the matrix was different, however on attempting to fit the replacement unit (which consisted of fan, heater and aircon matrix and baffles) we discovered that it is in fact the bottom flange / connection diameters on the aircon unit that differs.
Unfortunately to remove the housing holding the heater matrix you also have to remove the other parts including disconnecting the air con matrix. so to cut a long story short all fxed bar the regas on the rear aircon matrix which will be done next week. If anybody has a side conversion and they do not use this rear aircon unit, it may be an idea to bypass it as Andy suggested above, although it would appear that our problem arose because of the low temps (-18 or so) and the sustrained not using the bongo over a few weeks so no temp in the engine etc. i can also confirm that our coolant mix was OK, so original thought of weak mix was not the cause. guess we were just unlucky incidentally a pals diesel honda CRV froze up for over a week as well! untill the diesel thawed.
anyway happy to have the bongo back on the road. Thanks for all the help folks..

[Ron Miel]

Hi there,

I had exactly the same last year. For me it was a leak in one of the hoses to the rear heater matrix. As I needed the car and the garage was 30 miles away, I used one of the existing hoses to "bridge" out the matrix.

I wasn't sure if it was one of the hoses that had failed, or the pipework to the matrix, I suspect the latter. Anyway, I did this. bled the system and then had the garage check it over. As I have a side conversion and rarely used the rear heating anyway I've left the rear matrix out ever since. Works fine and easier to bleed.

Have a good look at these 2 hoses, especially where they disappear up inside the flooring. You can see what I mean about using one hose to connect the feed to the matrix to the return. If in any doubt buy new cooling hose and some decent jubilee clips.

PM me if you need any more info and I can go take some photos if that helps.

Good luck.

Andy

Hi Andy

Hope you're well.

Did you ever take photos of your "bridge"? Beginning to think I've got a leaking rear heater matrix that I'll need to bypass short term at least. Early last week, I thought it was a hose and/or hose clip problem, so ordered new ones from Ian, to use when I eventually drained it down to sort out the leak. Just out of hospital again at that time, I wasn't fit enough to do much more than ID the apparently weeping hose-end, but today I managed to work under the van a bit.

When I slid the hose end half way down the heater matrix input spigot and then dried it all off, after a while it began to weep again - but possibly from above, straight out of the heater/aircon housing. Just to make that uncertain though, when I then put the hose back fully onto the spigot all leaks stopped!!! They'll probably get going when the system's pressurised though.

Anyway, whatever the root cause, I had better bypass the rear heater now to get the Bongo mobile again - then, when I've got more time and energy, I'll go in from the top to check the matrix. To be honest, although I understand the rationale for permanently by-passing the rear heater in many cases, I like to use the rear climate control regularly to remove damp/prevent mould, so I'll probably not do that. I'll want it working again by next winter - so the hose now on order will also get used then, if not before.

Meanwhile, although I didn't yet spend much time on the subject, it wasn't immediately obvious to me how to use "...one hose to connect the feed to the matrix to the return".

Thanks/cheers/best wishes

David

[dunslair]

David.

Sorry to hear of your problems..In case Andy does not pick this up. A small length of 1/2 inch copper pipe with two 90 degree bends to give the same spacing as the pipes into the matrix will do as a bypass temporarily. Bulldog ends of rubber pipe (to avoid coolant loss) and slip over bypass pipe before securing with jubilee clips and hold up in place with a couple of cable ties. Sounds most likely that the plastic end has come away on the rear heater matrix causing the weep to run down the intake / outflow pipes.
I agree with not getting rid of the matrix altogether, when you do come to replace it....watch you don't blow your head off when you disconnect the aicon unit pipes May be worth giving Kirsty a pm I think she was removing her rear matrix and tank etc.... you may be able to get hold of it and use the heater matrix. Otherwise we got a replacement from bongobits , or you could get your one re cored / fixed. (if you dont mind the wait and having the rear panels etc off and on.)

All the best

David.

[Ron Miel]

David.

Sorry to hear of your problems..In case Andy does not pick this up. A small length of 1/2 inch copper pipe with two 90 degree bends to give the same spacing as the pipes into the matrix will do as a bypass temporarily. Bulldog ends of rubber pipe (to avoid coolant loss) and slip over bypass pipe before securing with jubilee clips and hold up in place with a couple of cable ties. Sounds most likely that the plastic end has come away on the rear heater matrix causing the weep to run down the intake / outflow pipes.
I agree with not getting rid of the matrix altogether, when you do come to replace it....watch you don't blow your head off when you disconnect the aicon unit pipes May be worth giving Kirsty a pm I think she was removing her rear matrix and tank etc.... you may be able to get hold of it and use the heater matrix. Otherwise we got a replacement from bongobits , or you could get your one re cored / fixed. (if you dont mind the wait and having the rear panels etc off and on.)

All the best

David.

Thanks David. I guessed there must be a bit of copper pipe involved but, as Andy hadn't said so, wondered if he had found a magic way of doing it without. What do you mean by "...Bulldog ends of rubber pipe..."?

Also, although I haven't found time yet to look at the pre-Sept '99 lushprojects info, I wondered if Andy's is different anyway (can't remember if he's got a 'new shape' or not), as he talks about hoses which "disappear up inside the flooring". Mine connect straight into the steel rear aircon/heater housing box, fitted in a space under the floor pan, below the Bongo (so, could I actually get at the heater matrix from above/inside - conversion-permitting, still to be checked - by removing the side panel, as I think I saw mentioned elsewhere here?). If I can get at it, and it turns out to need replacing, I'll want to put in a new one, and had noticed you got one from Bongobits, thanks. Thanks also for the reminder about aircon pressurisation - although, having recently successfully DIY re-pressurised mine, I hope I would have remembered

Presumably, the "plastic end" to the rear heater matrix is also internal to the housing box, as the hose clips straight onto a metal spigot? Thinks - have I at least temporarily "cured" the leak by sliding the hose back on that spigot, and then re-seating the plasic jobbie when I pushed the hose back up the spigot, probably moving the whole thing upwards in the process? What do you reckon? Worth a re-fill and bleed to try it, or just do a bypass until I get in there?

BTW, if I have to eventually do a permanent bypass, I would hope to take both of those rear heater hoses out of the circuit altogether, by bypassing upsteam from them. Anybody done that?

Thanks/cheers

David

[haydn callow]

I understand there is no benefit in bypassing the heater....just disconnect the pipes and bung the ends....If you do want to keep the circulation going round (bypass) then B&Q sell flexible copper pipe in about 12inch lenghts....very easy to bend a "loop" into one....I did it for exactly the same reason on a VW years ago.

[Ron Miel]

I understand there is no benefit in bypassing the heater....just disconnect the pipes and bung the ends....If you do want to keep the circulation going round (bypass) then B&Q sell flexible copper pipe in about 12inch lenghts....very easy to bend a "loop" into one....I did it for exactly the same reason on a VW years ago.

Thanks Haydn. Ah, that B & Q kit would save some hassle. Yes, I thought the rear heater might just be a siding rather than the main line, as I could see a pipe apparently heading off in parallel on the lushprojects diagrams - just needed to confirm where the other end goes. Probably will bypass for now though, rather than add pressure points at bunged up hose ends. Cheers, David

[dunslair]

David.

Bulldog clip is just to minimize coolant loss, if a temp fix. Of course it would be better to do a full flush and refill to make sure you don't get any air pockets. Your aluminium heater matrix sits in a plastic tray / unit which sits on top of the floor pan with the two pipes passing through. You will need to remove the whole unit containing the baffles, aircon unit, switches and heater matrix when you swap over the matrix. Kirsty has removed her unit and 'lost the loop' in the system by removing both of the rubber hoses feeding the rear heater unit. Best way to go if you decide to loose the rear heater altogether.

All the best

David.

[Ron Miel]

David.

Bulldog clip is just to minimize coolant loss, if a temp fix. Of course it would be better to do a full flush and refill to make sure you don't get any air pockets. Your aluminium heater matrix sits in a plastic tray / unit which sits on top of the floor pan with the two pipes passing through. You will need to remove the whole unit containing the baffles, aircon unit, switches and heater matrix when you swap over the matrix. Kirsty has removed her unit and 'lost the loop' in the system by removing both of the rubber hoses feeding the rear heater unit. Best way to go if you decide to loose the rear heater altogether.

All the best

David.

Gotcha David. Was just being thick - bulldog clips! Yep, that makes sense, and at least you don't mean bite it W S Churchill style Coolant's squeaky clean, so I'll salvage what's left for the moment, and get the whole lot flushed and refilled when it goes for servicing in September. Matrix check defo also sounds like an autumn job, when we've hopefully managed a bit of summer Bongoing first - bypass coming up! Cheers, David

[Ron Miel]

David.

Bulldog clip is just to minimize coolant loss, if a temp fix. Of course it would be better to do a full flush and refill to make sure you don't get any air pockets. Your aluminium heater matrix sits in a plastic tray / unit which sits on top of the floor pan with the two pipes passing through. You will need to remove the whole unit containing the baffles, aircon unit, switches and heater matrix when you swap over the matrix. Kirsty has removed her unit and 'lost the loop' in the system by removing both of the rubber hoses feeding the rear heater unit. Best way to go if you decide to loose the rear heater altogether.

All the best

David.

Gotcha David. Was just being thick - bulldog clips! Yep, that makes sense, and at least you don't mean bite it W S Churchill style Coolant's squeaky clean, so I'll salvage what's left for the moment, and get the whole lot flushed and refilled when it goes for servicing in September. Matrix check defo also sounds like an autumn job, when we've hopefully managed a bit of summer Bongoing first - bypass coming up! Cheers, David

Bypass done yesterday evening, using B & Q bendy copper pipe (thanks again Haydn) and good jubilee clips. No leaks so far, with an unpressurised system, so perhaps it'll be OK when I run and bleed it later today, although I wish it would show a hose leak, to be honest. If there's no hose leak, then I will have to strip out the heater matrix to check it over, and possibly replace it.

In the process yesterday, got better light applied to the job, and saw that you (and Andy) are of course right, David. Pipe spigots go into the floor pan, not directly into an under-mounted housing as I thought. Presumably, the plastic tray you mentioned is the lower part of the heater/aircon "case" shown at lushprojects (e.g., at EPC 6126A) - had wrongly assumed that was a steel structure, and was what I was looking at from below