Any tool supplier, screwfix set here. Drill as big a hole as you can while maintaining the integrity of the stud, insert the relevant sized stud extractor which screws in the opposite way so that as you tighten it up, it should grip the stud internally & start unscrewing it. Fingers crossed for youstanredski wrote:I would like to thank you all, great stuff, I promise to have some usefull info at some point, im good with gas ,if needed, so off to ge a stud extractor someone tell me where to get one and how to use it ill leave you in peace.
squeels on start for couple of minutes
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- missfixit70
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I think the stud is 8mm. Get a 5mm carbon/tungtun drill ...centre punch the stud exactly in the centre.....drill in 15mm approx.....screw in the extractor and hopefully the stud will ease out.....Only problem is if the drill or extractor brakes you are in big trouble.. Personally I would drill a small pilot hole then a 8mm....then tap and helicoil
Another way is to remove the manifold...hassel...and see if enough stud is sticking out to get a pair of mole grips on.
Or give the problem to a decent "hands on " garage.
Another way is to remove the manifold...hassel...and see if enough stud is sticking out to get a pair of mole grips on.
Or give the problem to a decent "hands on " garage.
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I disagree with drilling a smaller hole first, if you use a good quality drill, cobalt for instance, centre punch and drill the correct size, if you drill a smaller hole first, then try to drill out to required size, more chance of drill grabbing and breaking in hole, that is the advice I was given by a technician from Dormer tools Sheffield 
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bigdaddycain
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Wouldn't the drillbit just spin around the centre punched hole with no purchase?Peg leg Pete wrote:I disagree with drilling a smaller hole first, if you use a good quality drill, cobalt for instance, centre punch and drill the correct size, if you drill a smaller hole first, then try to drill out to required size, more chance of drill grabbing and breaking in hole, that is the advice I was given by a technician from Dormer tools Sheffield
I'm no technician pete,but i was taught to pilot hole anything bigger than 6mm....Especially in dense/tough materials...
I know what you are saying about the bit grabbing the swarf of the smaller hole, but chances are you could "feel" it before it digs in...Or am i being just a tad TOO dilligent?
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- missfixit70
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Got to agree with you Ste, Pilot drill, with coolant/lubrication squirted in occasionally, variable speed drill & a delicate touch with the trigger finger when going in with the larger drill, don't go in hard & fast, slow & steady gets the job done much better with much less chance of breaking/overheating drill bits etcbigdaddycain wrote:Wouldn't the drillbit just spin around the centre punched hole with no purchase?Peg leg Pete wrote:I disagree with drilling a smaller hole first, if you use a good quality drill, cobalt for instance, centre punch and drill the correct size, if you drill a smaller hole first, then try to drill out to required size, more chance of drill grabbing and breaking in hole, that is the advice I was given by a technician from Dormer tools Sheffield
I'm no technician pete,but i was taught to pilot hole anything bigger than 6mm....Especially in dense/tough materials...
I know what you are saying about the bit grabbing the swarf of the smaller hole, but chances are you could "feel" it before it digs in...Or am i being just a tad TOO dilligent?
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When I drilled mine out the stud was broken flush with the cylinder head.
The manifold stud hole was empty. I found a bit of (I think) 8mm ouside diameter tube which was 5mm inside diameter. This was a push fit in the manifold and by drilling with a 5mm drill it centered it perfectly. It was then easy to open this out to 8mm and helicoil. Centering the drill is the most difficult part of the job. Whole job took about 90 mins and if I ever do it again about a hour.
The manifold stud hole was empty. I found a bit of (I think) 8mm ouside diameter tube which was 5mm inside diameter. This was a push fit in the manifold and by drilling with a 5mm drill it centered it perfectly. It was then easy to open this out to 8mm and helicoil. Centering the drill is the most difficult part of the job. Whole job took about 90 mins and if I ever do it again about a hour.
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stanredski
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Big Rich
why ??
Hi can anyone help on this one...i am at a loss, how is it, that the stud that has snapped / blowing ....only screams on starting up ???? ... would it not howl all the time pitch changing with manifold pressure?? only shutting up when engine stopped. many thanks Rich
(quote she has a squeel on start up which lasts for about a minute any ideas ?)
(quote she has a squeel on start up which lasts for about a minute any ideas ?)
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Big Rich
would have thought that at some point over the temp range as its climbing ...there must be a point when the head/gasket/block/manifold are equalized in temp , the gap would have at some point re appeared ? wouldn't it ?? if thats the case why don't we just leave the stud ...if it squeals only on start up ? ps have you seen how slow the temp rises on a bongo?? mine would scream for around 8 -10 mins!! ...
note that its only noisy for 1 min ??? its not warmed up in that time ! .......... still think belts are slack/worn + the stud
note that its only noisy for 1 min ??? its not warmed up in that time ! .......... still think belts are slack/worn + the stud




