Steel seal

Technical questions and answers about the Mazda Bongo

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bikemunky

Re: Steel seal

Post by bikemunky » Wed Jun 17, 2009 8:45 pm

Bugger, thought I was on Bongo forum, didn't realise I needed to speak latin...

Anyhoo, done 600 miles since the steel seal went in, lost no water, temp gauge hasn't budged past normal, happy days. It says in the blurb that anything left in the coolant after the seal is complete becomes inert and just dissapears. How true this is I don't know, what I do know is that my Bongo is still running, instead of being scrapped or sold for spares so I'm happy. The liquid is flourescent yellow, clear, and looks like screen wash. I don't care how it works, it just does. For now. Time will tell I know, but until the bell tolls to signify the death of my beloved van, I shall keep one eye on the temp gauge and the other on the road 8)
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Re: Steel seal

Post by mister munkey » Wed Jun 17, 2009 9:01 pm

Possibly worth investing in a Mason alarm in the meantime to keep a closer eye on engine temp than the standard guage allows. Around thirty quid, a ten minute fit, it un-damps the temp sensor to give a truer reading when under load or if any other signs of overheating are about to occur.

Worth a thought for peace of mind.

8)
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Re: Steel seal

Post by David Edwards » Wed Jun 17, 2009 9:03 pm

Well bloody good on you mike for having the balls to try it out, I hope it carries on working for you with no probs, it is certainly worth you telling us all and you could certainly help to save a lot of dough for peeps, it is damn well worth a try anyway if anyone has problems and I for one would try a £30.00 fix even if as you said it lasts a year, that is a year without a major expense, keep us informed as to how it is doing, I am very interested.
bikemunky

Re: Steel seal

Post by bikemunky » Tue Aug 18, 2009 8:02 am

Hi again,

Just a further report on my usage of steel seal to fix my overheating problem.

I have driven normally now since the repair in May, including trips to the Peak District, Devon, and most recently Wales including a route through the mountains. The coolant level hasn't dropped,the temp gauge never budged and i'm a very happy man :D .

If anyone suffers the news of a head gasket,cylinder head leak,or any overheating problems at all, please try Steel Seal before you do anything else. For 30 quid,its got to be worth a try. I'm convinced, and if it saves 1500 quid on a head gasket repair, its got to be the way forward. =D>
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Re: Steel seal

Post by mikexgough » Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:44 am

Went to a Motor Factor in Peterborough yesterday to get some parts for our Citroen (he sells dealer parts at 30% or more less than a dealer - same parts but not in Citroen/Peugeot packaging) and he had some of the KSeal on the counter top (well HAD was the word, he had the display but had sold out :shock:

He told me that most people who change their coolant(he does VW/Audi/Citroen/Peugeot/BMW/Mercedes/Seat/Skoda/Renault) also add KSeal as a matter of course.
I gather that Steel Seal & KSeal are similar products, well done for "road testing" for the fellow Bongo owners, It could be a stop gap measure.

Have you noticed any issues with the coolant/Hoses/Radiator since putting it in the system?
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Re: Steel seal

Post by missfixit70 » Tue Aug 18, 2009 12:32 pm

Please make sure that anyone that uses this stuff, makes sure they tell whoever buys the vehicle if they sell it that they've added it, so they can decide to walk away. A sticker on the expansion bottle would be better - a permanent record.
This may be a fantastic product & the answer to a lot of coolant issues, but, it may also be a potential future nightmare.
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Re: Steel seal

Post by bikemunky » Wed Aug 19, 2009 5:40 am

Kseal and Steel Seal are different in that Kseal is like the old Holts Rad weld, a thick liquid that contains loads of particles that rely on engine tempreture to circulate. When the engine cools, the sealant settles. Steel Seal is different as the liquid is clear,yellow coloured fluid that is as thin as water. There are no particles to block pipes, pumps or anything else. Kseal is a temporary repair. Steel seal is sold as a permanent repair. Steel Seal is forced under pressure into any holes it finds and forms an epoxy resin like fix, which cures and hardens to repair pemanently. According to the blurb,any remaining sealent in the system after repair becomes "inert" and dissipates in the anti freeze.

I'm sure there are naysayers who think that this is just gimmick. However,how many posts are there on this very website regarding overheating, blown headgaskets, cracked heads, with people paying £1500 or more to repair? How many Bongos have been either scrapped or broken due to an expensive repair that most of couldn't afford (I couldn't!!!). Mine would have been on ebay for spares or repair if I hadn.t tried this.

I tried this in desperation and it worked. I would recommend to anyone tht they try this first before blowing their savings on an engine rebuild. I know someone who has paid for the costly repair,and is still paying for it as it still won't run right,there are so many variables to take into account with a blown engine.

Thanks Mike for your support.I shall report in the future how I am doing. The proof will be in the first coolant change since the repair. If it turns out my engine is full of gunk, I shall doff my cap to those naysayers and slink quietly away with my head hung in same. If however the product performs as sold, I think that I may have just sold many peoples problems. As I mentioned in previous posts, I don't work for Steel Seal. I read the testimonials and took a chance.

However,I could just be talking out my a£$e. The repair could give up tomorow and I could still be flogging spares on ebay! Time will tell.
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Re: Steel seal

Post by missfixit70 » Sun Aug 23, 2009 12:45 am

Keep us posted as to how it performs after the next coolant change & beyond. You make a relevant point about cost of repairs & keeping it going, but if it does only have a short term effect, it gives unscrupulous sellers a way to offload an expensive problem, that's my concern, especially as it looks like I know someone who may have recently acquired such a lemon (she's just awaiting the verdict from the garage [-o< ). I try & look at the pro's & con's of anything, & I can see both sides of this one :wink: Hoping it turns out to be a winner.
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Re: Steel seal

Post by bikemunky » Mon Aug 24, 2009 1:20 pm

I guess I can see what you are saying Kirsty. I suppose I wouldn't want to buy a lemon either. But I love my bongo,and have no plans to sell it, so it will be only me that suffers ifit goes bang. Of course if I was to sell it on, it would be unscrupulous for me to not say anything,which my garage told me I should do!

I only meant this as a fix to genuine entusiasts,who like me love their bongos, but can't afford to shell out half as much as the vehicle is worth to fix this problem. If there are traders out there using this product, the shame on them if they tell no-one that they have used it

The age of the vehicle suggests to me that the cost of the repair far outweighs its worth(at least in the wifes eyes!),and if this hadn't worked for me it would have been the scrappy for bongo.

If I had known that this problem had been so prevalent on these vehicles,I wouldn't have bought one, and probably won't again,which is quite sad. In future I will look at VW or have a van converted myself.

I intend to run the van until it dies. I love its practicality, I love the camarderie between bongo owners,seems a shame that they aren't built to last...

For those that are interested, I shall keep posting with my progress, and let them decide if it is for them or not.

Ps. My local garage fixed a bongo (same problem as mine). It has been back many times,the mechanic quotes they are very difficult to work on,and virtually impossible to bleed properly. I did my repair in 4 hours,drained the system,refilled and bled with no probs. I used the info sheets on here as a guide to bleeding the system but was so confused by the end that I just did it my own way using blokes logic. Why do people make it sound so complicated to bleed the system?
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Re: Steel seal

Post by phedders » Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:06 pm

You can't just drop that in and not enlighted us... tell us more about your bleeding method!!!
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Re: Steel seal

Post by francophile1947 » Mon Aug 24, 2009 3:28 pm

phedders wrote: tell us more about your bleeding method!!!
Language please :shock: :shock: - oops, that bleeding method :oops: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Re: Steel seal

Post by mikexgough » Fri Aug 28, 2009 8:34 pm

Just been looking at a local classic car dealers site........ http://www.theshillingyears.co.uk/id39.html

he sells the stuff.......but the cars that have used it have been modern.....well in his listing anyway
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Re: Steel seal

Post by francophile1947 » Sat Aug 29, 2009 9:48 am

mikexgough wrote:Just been looking at a local classic car dealers site........ http://www.theshillingyears.co.uk/id39.html

he sells the stuff.......but the cars that have used it have been modern.....well in his listing anyway
Just had a look at that site - he quotes "Head Gasket Gone? Try Steal Seal" - let's hope that's not what he really means #-o :lol:
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bikemunky

Re: Steel seal

Post by bikemunky » Sun Oct 25, 2009 2:37 am

Heres the latest on my use of Steel Seal. Done about 2k since I put the stuff in, including a Holiday in Scotland, a weekend in Wales, and half a dozen trips to the peaks and South Yorkshire. Not lost a drop of coolant, and the temp gauge hasn't budged :D . I still carry 5 litres of coolant in the back, just in case, but so far so good.

Coolant change. Here's my method:Take bottom hose off, radiator cap and expansion bottle cap. Flush system with cold water until it runs clear. Under the passenger seat is a 3/4 in rubber pipe, clipped to the side of the engine bay above the wheel arch. Release this. IN the end is a bung with a pipe clip. Leave this as it is for now.

To bleed: Replace bottom hose. With both caps off, fill radiator and expansion tank with fresh coolant until full. Start engine, and while its running, gently squeeze the hoses. You will get some big bubbles coming out of the radiator and expansion bottle, and the level of coolant will start to fall. Keep topping the rad up and continue to squeeze the hoses gently to push the coolant round, and release any air in the system. Keep checking the expansion bottle and top up as the level drops.

Keep going with the above until the level in the rad stops dropping.Carefully (wear gloves!) remove the bung from the hose mentioned in the first paragraph. There will be hot water in this pipe so point it away from you. There will be a coughing/burping noise and there will be spurts of coolant from the pipe. You might need some help here. Get another to keep an eye on the coolant level in the rad, and gently squeeze the pipes. The level will drop so the other will need to top it up. Eventually the coughing from the pipe will stop, and a steady stream of coolant will start to pour from the pipe. Hold the pipe up and away from yourself and get the other to turn of the engine.
Carefully replace the bung, and clip. Make sure the rad is full and the level in the expansion tank is correct. Put the rad cap back on. The engine should be getting warm now. Keep an eye on the expansion tank, keep squeezing the hoses and watch the tank for bubbles, when they stop, all is good, nearly done.

By now the engine should be at operating temperature, and the fan may have cut in during this process, this is fine. Check the coolant level in the expansion tank, if it has dropped, top it up to the correct level and replace the cap. Restart the engine and take a look at the temerature gauge, it should be at its normal position, about a 3rd of the way up. If it is, all is good. Take your bongo for a gentle run round the block, keep a constant eye on the temp gauge. If the gauge stays constant and doesn't move, well done, you have succesfully bled the system and your bongo should be safe to drive normally. If while you are driving the gauge starts to rise, or begins to rise and fall, there could be air in the system. Pull over, or get home asap. Park up, and with the engine running check the gauge. If it continues to rise, switch off, leave to cool, and go through the bleeding system again.

DISCLAIMER! This is how I did it and it worked for me. Please note that I cannot be held responsible if this process doesn't work for you. I tried to use the info sheets on here from other members, but I got confused with all the various rev ranges and timings that they mentioned. It seemed a little pointless to me, but I'm not a mechanic so what do I know!

I apologise if I have not put my info in the right topic heading, I'm quite sure it should be elsewhere, but I don;t know how to link this post to another topic heading.
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Re: Steel seal

Post by mikeonb4c » Sun Oct 25, 2009 10:24 am

Thanks for the update on Steel Seal bikemunky - v. useful to hear that.

I've not read your instructions on coolant bleeding very closely. You are right to stress the disclaimer, just in case! There seem to be at least two well established methods discussed on here. The first is (obviously) the workshop manual method. The second is the 'see saw' method, which is rather cunning and involves using a funnel on the bleed tube so you can put coolant mix in it and - by raising and lowering the funnel, persuade air bubbles out of the system (or summat like that!). All methods stress the absolute importance of getting the bottom has warm/hot and that to do this may take consirable running time (30+ mins).
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