Technical questions and answers about the Mazda Bongo
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lizard
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by lizard » Sun Dec 21, 2008 2:16 pm
mister munkey wrote:Sounds like although a Ranger may fit, it needs a fair bit of faffing to make it right, is it worth it?
Only if you get a brand new
spanking (Oooohhheerrr matron) engine given to you for free

There is more stupidity than hydrogen in the universe, and it has a longer shelf life.
F Zappa
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draper3000
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by draper3000 » Mon Aug 03, 2009 9:51 pm
all that chat and no one has any advice on how to fit the elbow?
Just tried fitting a new elbow to a new head, with no luck, tried little taps with hammer, but it just won't go in?
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blobber
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by blobber » Mon Aug 03, 2009 11:00 pm
Draper........ might be worth giving Mike at Wheelquick a ring, he had to fit one to my new cylinder head last year.
Alan & Dot
Yes sir, I can Bongo !!
I now walk with an angel by my side.
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g8dhe
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by g8dhe » Mon Aug 03, 2009 11:31 pm
Have you tried freezing the new pipe and heating the hole it might just give you a few mor thou to play with.
Geoff
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
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Bongo.Baz.tard
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by Bongo.Baz.tard » Tue Aug 04, 2009 1:57 am
Been reading this thread,
and i'm wondering if the rear heater is a low point as stated.
Would it be an idea to bleed the bongo nose up or nose down as oppossed to flat.
So as to aid bleeding.
Not sure which if any would be of any great help?
Its just a thought.
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mikexgough
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by mikexgough » Tue Aug 04, 2009 7:51 am
I'm with the rear heater theory........... mind you I did a homebrew method of system bleeding and my theory for bleeding the system worked...... well after Bleeding French cars the Bongo is a doddle, just need to take your time and be systematic......
as Alan says...... check with Wheelquick for tips on fitting the elbow......
Conversant with Bongo Top Pinion Oil Seals
Bongo owning Velotech Cycle Mechanic
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scanner
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by scanner » Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:30 am
Bongo.Baz.tard wrote:Been reading this thread,
and i'm wondering if the rear heater is a low point as stated.
Would it be an idea to bleed the bongo nose up or nose down as oppossed to flat.
So as to aid bleeding.
Not sure which if any would be of any great help?
Its just a thought.
To make any difference it's likely you'd have to stand the Bongo on it's tailgate.

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mikexgough
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by mikexgough » Tue Aug 04, 2009 8:48 am
Conversant with Bongo Top Pinion Oil Seals
Bongo owning Velotech Cycle Mechanic
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draper3000
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by draper3000 » Tue Aug 04, 2009 1:53 pm
Thanks for replies...will give Mikeat Wheelquick a call and post the answer here...Cheers Jon
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lizard
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by lizard » Tue Aug 04, 2009 5:45 pm
missfixit70 wrote:mister munkey wrote:I don't think they physicaly remove the rear heater system Trev, just blank off the controls.
I thought that Wellhouse removed all the gubbins as Trev said & used the "well" that they're located in for water tanks or something?
It's an idea I keep thinking about, there's a lot of space taken up with all the workings & my rear heater/ac hardly ever gets used, could even use the upper air outlet vent spaces as extra junk storage.
This would make a great factsheet.

There is more stupidity than hydrogen in the universe, and it has a longer shelf life.
F Zappa
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missfixit70
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by missfixit70 » Fri Apr 02, 2010 4:17 pm
Just to clear up the no rear heater = easier bleeding theory, mine's now removed & blanked off (as Mazda intended for the bongos with no rear heater out of the factory & shown on the lushprojects diagrams if you look hard enough) rather than looped/bypassed, didn't notice any real difference in bleeding TBH.
I think the main difference between the Ranger & the bongo is the fact that the bongo is mid engined & even with the rear heater gone, still has a s**t load of pipework. if you look at your bongo or the diagrams, the big hoses to & from the engine & rad they go down below the level of both, I think this is possibly where the bleeding issues stem from.
You can't polish a turd - but you can roll it in glitter.
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ADAMD
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by ADAMD » Tue Apr 06, 2010 2:47 pm
I put the elbow in the freezer, tried several things to tap it in, but succeeded by grinding a blunt end onto a masonary chisel and using that, with a small hammer, to gently tap it in evenly around the flange.