Tackling a Tiny bit of Tinworm - thanks to Falcoron +HELP!!!

[mikeonb4c]

I have to thank Falcoron greatly for his advice on rust repairing and spraying. Just done the hob and the paint/rust stripper wheel thing he recommended worked beautifully. I then chased out suspicious dark patches with a grinding piece (they soon revealed themselves as being a skin over rusty areas - all small and localised luckily) and I did a 'dentists' job and chased out as much as I could to good metal before wicking Kurust into where I couldn't reach then applying zinc primer. Some diligent P38 work and wet and drying to fair into the existing paintwork, then some silent silver using a comperssor spray gun, then some spray on lacquer (I wasn't prepared to buy and hassle of 2-pack lacquer for this local repair) and the job as as near as perfect as can be (almost professional).

Now I need a bit more advice.

I've got to tackle a couple of small areas on the green painted are of the wheel arch now - this will be tricker as I don't have natural panel or paint change lines to mask up to. Does Falcoron or anyone else have any tips on how to achieve a good blend between patch repair and existing paint (I'm thinking I will get a step where the masking tape is) . For example, can you wet and dry primer to feather the edge caused by the masking tape, then mask a little further out, spray the metallic and feather it (does metallic object to being wet and dry'd?) , then move mask line back, spray lacquer and repeat the feathering exercise on that? What fineness of wet and dry should be used and how do you buff up to a shine after wet and drying the lacquer.

I'd be grateful for any advice. The two small areas I've got look to be no more than rusting under the paint due to a break in the surface. I'm hoping that by catching them early and grinding them out, that I may arrest progress for quite some time. I notice too that the paint on the wheel arch returns/lip is not looking good. I'm thinking that I may actually repaint a whole area, along the curve of the wheel arch, going about 1-2 inches onto the wing (maybe even to the point where the arch flares slightly, so I can relax and grind out anything dodgy then respray the lot. This would also mean that even if I get an edge of slight colour mismatch (old paint to new paint) it will be consistent and will follow the wheel arch line, so be more pleasant to the eye.

Thoughts anyone?

[kloonsy]

The only way to achieve this is to lacquer the entire panel, or up to a sharp break line if space between it and the repair allows. Prime the area, flat the primer and key the surrounding panel. Mask the panel and colour the primer then flick the basecoat out and lacquer the panel. if you try to blend lacquer on large areas it will 'map out' when you try to polish it in. Been panelling and painting cars professionally for 24 years and trust me, this is the way!!


Dave

[mikeonb4c]

The only way to achieve this is to lacquer the entire panel, or up to a sharp break line if space between it and the repair allows. Prime the area, flat the primer and key the surrounding panel. Mask the panel and colour the primer then flick the basecoat out and lacquer the panel. if you try to blend lacquer on large areas it will 'map out' when you try to polish it in. Been panelling and painting cars professionally for 24 years and trust me, this is the way!!


Dave

Thanks Dave - that's v useful to know. I don't fancy getting involved with a large panel (I'm working outdoors - dust and insects etc.) and doing that would probably just show up the rest of the car. I reckon then that my best bet is to identify the line where the panel flares near the wheel arch and just mask of along that line so that a lacquer join line (which I imagine I could still soften with something like t-cut or solvol autosol) is not so obvious to the eye. Just to check, would you agree though that I could:

• use one masking line for primer, remove tape and flat/blend primer to existing
• mask further out and apply metallic, then wet and dry metallic (I'm worried you shouldn't attempt to flat metallic, and I've not done that in the past, but it would be useful here to remove the mask line)
• mask further out and apply lacquer. Once lacquer is sufficiently hard would it be possible to soften the masking line with careful use of abrasive compound (solvol autosol maybe as I have some of that and it would save me buying some t-cut?)

Any help you can give would be great. Incidentally, you said:

colour the primer then flick the basecoat out

...but what do you mean by 'colour the primer' (do you mix a colour with it, as I've never done that) and what does it mean to 'flick the basecoat'. Sorry for my ignorance

Thanks again

Mike

[kloonsy]

The only way to achieve this is to lacquer the entire panel, or up to a sharp break line if space between it and the repair allows. Prime the area, flat the primer and key the surrounding panel. Mask the panel and colour the primer then flick the basecoat out and lacquer the panel. if you try to blend lacquer on large areas it will 'map out' when you try to polish it in. Been panelling and painting cars professionally for 24 years and trust me, this is the way!!


Dave

Thanks Dave - that's v useful to know. I don't fancy getting involved with a large panel (I'm working outdoors - dust and insects etc.) and doing that would probably just show up the rest of the car. I reckon then that my best bet is to identify the line where the panel flares near the wheel arch and just mask of along that line so that a lacquer join line (which I imagine I could still soften with something like t-cut or solvol autosol) is not so obvious to the eye. Just to check, would you agree though that I could:

• use one masking line for primer, remove tape and flat/blend primer to existing
• mask further out and apply metallic, then wet and dry metallic (I'm worried you shouldn't attempt to flat metallic, and I've not done that in the past, but it would be useful here to remove the mask line)
• mask further out and apply lacquer. Once lacquer is sufficiently hard would it be possible to soften the masking line with careful use of abrasive compound (solvol autosol maybe as I have some of that and it would save me buying some t-cut?)

Any help you can give would be great. Incidentally, you said:

colour the primer then flick the basecoat out

...but what do you mean by 'colour the primer' (do you mix a colour with it, as I've never done that) and what does it mean to 'flick the basecoat'. Sorry for my ignorance

Thanks again

Mike

hi Mike, dont prime to a line.you dont need to flat metallics to loose line, thats what i meant by flicking out. By colour the primer i meant obliterate the primer, i.e. till you cant see it. Wouldnt use autosol on old paint never mind new!! Tell you what, why not pop over and ill sort it for you!!

[You've Been Bongod]

now mike thats an offer you cant refuse BUT

he will only charge you £2000 as you are a fury member

[mikeonb4c]

The only way to achieve this is to lacquer the entire panel, or up to a sharp break line if space between it and the repair allows. Prime the area, flat the primer and key the surrounding panel. Mask the panel and colour the primer then flick the basecoat out and lacquer the panel. if you try to blend lacquer on large areas it will 'map out' when you try to polish it in. Been panelling and painting cars professionally for 24 years and trust me, this is the way!!


Dave

Thanks Dave - that's v useful to know. I don't fancy getting involved with a large panel (I'm working outdoors - dust and insects etc.) and doing that would probably just show up the rest of the car. I reckon then that my best bet is to identify the line where the panel flares near the wheel arch and just mask of along that line so that a lacquer join line (which I imagine I could still soften with something like t-cut or solvol autosol) is not so obvious to the eye. Just to check, would you agree though that I could:

• use one masking line for primer, remove tape and flat/blend primer to existing
• mask further out and apply metallic, then wet and dry metallic (I'm worried you shouldn't attempt to flat metallic, and I've not done that in the past, but it would be useful here to remove the mask line)
• mask further out and apply lacquer. Once lacquer is sufficiently hard would it be possible to soften the masking line with careful use of abrasive compound (solvol autosol maybe as I have some of that and it would save me buying some t-cut?)

Any help you can give would be great. Incidentally, you said:

colour the primer then flick the basecoat out

...but what do you mean by 'colour the primer' (do you mix a colour with it, as I've never done that) and what does it mean to 'flick the basecoat'. Sorry for my ignorance

Thanks again

Mike

hi Mike, dont prime to a line.you dont need to flat metallics to loose line, thats what i meant by flicking out. By colour the primer i meant obliterate the primer, i.e. till you cant see it. Wouldnt use autosol on old paint never mind new!! Tell you what, why not pop over and ill sort it for you!!

You're starting to tempt me now Dave. I'll give that serious thought. Mind you, its a funny thing, but what I've loved about this Bongo is that it didn't cost much and I get a real kick out of tackling scary when it comes off well. ALthough not up to your standard, you'd have been proud of hte result I got today on the n/s/r repair / respray considering my basic tools and skill. It looks as good as new, blends perfectly and is as smooth as a babies bum.

Summing up, it sound like what you are saying is no need to work to line with either primer or metallic. Flat primer, don't flat metallic. Don't attempt any masking except at an obvious join line where it doesn't matter, and then lacquer that whole area. It begins to make sense and is a lot less labour. Where it get's interesting then is it is only a short step to saying: mask off the rear wing, repair, P38 if need be and wet/dry back to fair into paintwork, prime and flat primer around repair area, then treat yourself to new metallic and lacquer over the whole panel. A bit more in materials but two spanking new resprayed wings into the bargain. Hmmmm - tempting esp. as there's a ding in one of my rear pillars that I could P38 at the same time. And another on the bottom corner of my tailgate. Cripes, where is this going to end