Central locking incorrectly put onto leisure battery

[Alifriendee]

The leisure battery on our Bongo runs the electrics from fuse one which seems to include the central locking.

Is there any way of getting the central locking back onto the vehicle battery power?

I've checked to find fuse 4 controls the central locking motors so I guess I need to find some way of locating the power supply for the switch taking it's supply from fuse one and pop it onto the permanent 12v supply somehow.

I've found the relay and have now run out of steam.

There is a good reason for this I promise!

Many thanks in anticipation.

P.S. The person who changed all this even put the horn onto the leisure battery! Now put right but what a crazy thing to do.

[Colin H F]

You could run a seperate poss and neg from your car battery and protect it with an inline fuse to feed your central locking switch

[Alifriendee]

Thanks.

I realise now that there is wiring that goes from somewhere in the vehicle, into the drivers door, then out again and up to the relay.

Is the relay the switch or is there a separate switch somewhere?

So where to intercept the wiring to change the supply to the switch I wonder?

[Colin H F]

well if you know the fuse that supplies the central locking that is the wire you need to supply. check first by pulling the fuse out and if it only stops the central locking then thats it check the "dead side" with the fuse out and divert it to your car battery wiring

[g8dhe]

You need to be aware that there are two fuses for the doors. The first 10 Amp top left, which is probably the one that has been moved to the L/B is only the control signal, the second one 5th from right 30 Amp is the fuse that operates the actuators themselves;

Its probably easiest to intercept the wire coming out of the door before it joins the main loom and transferring it across to the the 30Amp fuse, but this will mean digging into the loom itself to identify and extend the wires.
Personally we find it useful to be able to identify that the L/B is flat when you can't open the van by remote, but have to put the key in the door to unlock the drivers side. I guess the pain comes when you don't do sufficient mileage to recharge the L/B each time

[g8dhe]

well if you know the fuse that supplies the central locking that is the wire you need to supply. check first by pulling the fuse out and if it only stops the central locking then thats it check the "dead side" with the fuse out and divert it to your car battery wiring

It supplies many circuits does the 10 Amp top left fuse!
Engine - Control System - WL-TAT
Engine - Control System Ignition - FE-E
Engine - Control System Ignition - J5-DE
Air conditioning - Auto A/C Control System & Heater - WL-T, FE-E, J5-DE
Chassis related - EC-AT Control System - FE-E, J5-DE
Interior lighting - Cargo Room & Spot Lights - WL-T, FE-E, J5-DE
Accessories - Audio System - WL-T, FE-E, J5-DE
Accessories - Car Navigation System - WL-T, FE-E, J5-DE
Body - Power Door Lock System - WL-T, FE-E, J5-DE
Body - Auto Free Top - WL-T, FE-E, J5-DE
Body - Sound Warning System - WL-T, FE-E, J5-DE

[Alifriendee]

When I pull fuse 4 all I hear when I try the central locking is a click from the relay but no action.

So fuse 4 is controlling the motors, but fuse 1 is controlling the switch.

Fuse 1 also controls the interior lighting etc.

So I need to find the supply to the locking switch and separate it from the rest of the fuse 1 stuff which is currently running off the leisure battery.

[g8dhe]

That's it, the wire is the Blue with Red stripe in X16 connector (look at the connector diagrams for which pin , and move up one page for the location of X16 in the vehicle itself from the circuit page).

[Alifriendee]

That sounds so simple but I have no idea what the diagram is talking about and where to look !!!

[g8dhe]

You might be better then taking this information to a local auto electrician and asking him to make the change, or finding someone local who does understand wiring diagrams etc.

I guess the real question though is why isn't your L/B working ? If it was working then you wouldn't have these problems !

[Alifriendee]

There's a drain on the leisure battery I can't trace.

I've moved the radio and clock onto a permanent feed. Didn't solve the problem.

I've moved the horn (!) off the leisure battery as they should never have moved that.

The cabin lights, the cigarette lighters and the blinds are all that is left on the leisure battery but still a drain.

I've replaced the relay supplying the charging power to the leisure battery and checked all it's wiring as we had a problem with that while we were away on holiday.

Still a drain.

I've fitted a cut off switch to the leisure battery now to manually separate it from the electrics while the Bongo sits idle as it's a third car for us so sometimes it can sit idle for a couple of weeks, but this means the central locking won't work, hence my wish to get it back working off the vehicle battery.

I know I should really find the source of the drain but I've come to a halt with my investigations.

I guess you're going to tell me I should take it to an auto electrician but we've spent so much money on this vehicle since we bought it a year ago I've got to stop someday.

[g8dhe]

Right, lets see if we can help identify the drain. Can you answer any of the questions below ?

• Do you have a multimeter which can measure current ? It would help to know how much current is being drawn.
• How long does the L/B last for after a full charge? If you don't have a meter it helps identify how much current is being drained or perhaps if the L/B is already in bad shape.
• Do you know what sort of charging relay is in use, is it a Voltage Sensitive Relay (VSR) that connects the two batteries together once the S/B has started to charge
  or is it a normal relay that is switched from either the alternator or the Ignition key circuit ? This would help identify the type of circuit in use and how much charge the L/B is getting.
• When you moved the Radio, which feed did you move? There are two feeds, a permanent feed to keep the memories intact and a switched feed via the ignition.

[Alifriendee]

Thanks for the reply.

I have a Draper DMM4 multimeter but don't know how to use it.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-Dmm4-Dig ... B000OGW2G0

The l/b lasts for a week after a full charge. It's a new Numax leisure battery 85ah - about 4 months old. Replaced under warranty as we thought it was the battery at one stage. It charges just fine when driving, and I use an intelligent battery charger, a CTEK Multi XS 4003 to charge when we need to.

It's got a Ryder TF1170-3 relay.

http://www.rydertowing.co.uk/towbar_rel ... F1170.aspx#

I put the radio (and the clock) onto a permanent feed to keep the memory intact. They are working fine. I make sure the radio is fully off, not just on "standby". Moving them has made no difference to the drain.

[madmile]

What make of Radio have you got? I have done conversions on a few with the lidl / aldi specials, and they can have a draw of about .15A even with everything switched off.

[g8dhe]

OK well you should be getting a lot more than a week from the L/B certainly, 3-4 weeks minimum and possibly 2 months or more if your lucky without a charge.
To trace the drain you will need to measure the current being drawn from the battery, and then by pulling each of the fuses in turn, see which circuits are drawing current.

To measure the current being drawn you first need to set up the two switches on the meter as shown below;
the top switch set to Amps and the lower switch set to 200mA


Now from here on Don't switch on the engine or turn on any circuits in the van, and make sure that nothing is plugged into the either of the cigarette sockets as well, until you disconnect the meter!
You will need to undo the -ve terminal of the L/B and connect the Red wire of the meter to the disconnected wire, then you need to get a good connection from the Black lead onto the battery -ve terminal, as you do this the meter will show a current. Ideally you want to position the meter so you can see it from the drivers door so that you can then remove fuses one by one from the fuse panel by the drivers knee. Before you start removing fuses note down the meter reading, hopefully it will be less than 200mA otherwise your meter will go overrange, now start removing one fuse at a time and note the readings for each fuse. Start with the top row, left side as that is the fuse most likely to have the drain on it, when the fuse is out note the new reading, replace the fuse and move onto the next one etc.

If you report back the findings we can then make suggestions as to where the problem might be.

One thing that might confuse the situation is if the relay has any other connections than to the S/B, Earth and the L/B, take a look at the relay and if there is more than three wires, see if you can work out where they go - its possible that if you have a fridge fitted then it might well be connected direct to the relay rather than via the vehicle fuse panel.

Oh and finally you will need to remove the meter wires and reconnect the -ve terminal of the battery of course.