Alternator through bolt

Kincaid · Post by **Kincaid** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 6:22 pm

Hi all. Can someone cast some light on this issue -I want to change the drive belts and was hoping to do it myself rather than take it into the garage.

The alternator through bolt at the bottom of the unit just won't loosen off. The service manual says to loosen it from the drive-belt side, on my Bongo the nut is actually on the left side of the through-bolt (next to the oil dipstick). Should I loosen the nut end or persist with the belt side as per the service manual?

TonyBee · Post by **TonyBee** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 6:47 pm

Having removed mine today to change my water pump I would say undo the nut next to the dipstick.
'Coz that's what I did.

Tony

Kincaid · Post by **Kincaid** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 7:27 pm

TonyBee wrote:Having removed mine today to change my water pump I would say undo the nut next to the dipstick.
'Coz that's what I did.

Tony

Cheers Tony - I found that even when taking the retaining nut off the dipstick and moving it to the side I couldn't get a socket on it. I tried a 14 spanner but couldn't get the nut moving what did you use?

bongobaz · Post by **bongobaz** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 8:19 pm

Mines stuck too.

TonyBee · Post by **TonyBee** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 8:39 pm

Mine was tighter than a tight thing too!
What sort of spanners do you have?
The way I did it was using combination spanners, place the 14mm ring on the offending nut and this will leave the open ended part stuck up in the air. Then get a bigger sized combination spanner (I used 18mm) and place the ring part over one of the jaws of the 14mm and use the extra torque available to crack the nut.
I hope you understand this concept. If not let me know and I will post a picture as it is worth a thousand words.

Tony

Kincaid · Post by **Kincaid** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 8:58 pm

TonyBee wrote:Mine was tighter than a tight thing too!
What sort of spanners do you have?
The way I did it was using combination spanners, place the 14mm ring on the offending nut and this will leave the open ended part stuck up in the air. Then get a bigger sized combination spanner (I used 18mm) and place the ring part over one of the jaws of the 14mm and use the extra torque available to crack the nut.
I hope you understand this concept. If not let me know and I will post a picture as it is worth a thousand words.

Tony

I read this and thought 'I've gotta get me some of those combination spanners! Checked out a picture on Amazon I realised I already had them

Still couldn't quite figure out the linking bit so got the spanner and hey presto it works - brilliant tip!!!!! Thanks.

ps. real mechanic me can't you tell

TonyBee · Post by **TonyBee** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:03 pm

Not a problem!
At least I learned something fixing submarines for 20 years

Tony

Kincaid · Post by **Kincaid** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:10 pm

TonyBee wrote:Not a problem!
At least I learned something fixing submarines for 20 years

Tony

Submarines? I'm assuming today's water pump change went well then

Did you also do the thermostat, as I've read most people on here seem to change them together?

TonyBee · Post by **TonyBee** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 9:21 pm

Yes!
I changed the water pump, stat and fitted a temperature sensor pocket into the radiator top hose so I can have a digital readout.

Tony

macandnic · Post by **macandnic** » Wed Apr 13, 2011 10:49 pm

Hi folks... from memory when I did this I used a three foot long 3/8 inch 'breaker bar' and a regular 14mm socket... the leverage on the bar is huge [works well on wheel nuts and head bolts - NEVER use your torque wrench for 'undoing' as the force can damage the tool] When the breaker bar is pointed vertically down onto the bolt - from the centre of where the gear change normally would sit [and you're standing in the front passenger doorway] you can exert the force you require. The breaker bar's 'universal joint' knuckle enable it to offset about 5-10 degrees from the vertical towards the rear of the van to allow it to miss fouling on the engine bulkhead below the heater controls/radio etc... Hope this is what you were asking about anyway?!?! [it was a eureka moment for me]..

Mac.

tallbongo · Post by **tallbongo** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 12:47 pm

Most of the bongo bolts I've undone using that sort of leverage have simply sheared. That might do the trick though!

helen&tony · Post by **helen&tony** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 1:13 pm

Hi
It's often not sheer force that's necessary, but a wallop on the spanner with a hide mallet, or heavy rubber hammer....NEVER hit a spanner with a metal hammer!
Cheers
Helen

lazyb5 · Post by **lazyb5** » Thu Apr 14, 2011 4:26 pm

I`m on the same bus as Tony and Helen large copper mallet always works or ... its a left hand thread

helen&tony · Post by **helen&tony** » Fri Apr 15, 2011 12:56 pm

Hi
Ah, yes...I havea superb copper/ gunmetal hammer as well...stupendous...old tools are truly wonderful to own. Most of my hammers are over 75years , and made of proper materials

I do have one hammer that's lasted many lifetimes...it's had 2 new heads and 3 new handles.......

Cheers
Helen

Alternator through bolt

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