Design Fault
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- The Great Pretender
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Design Fault
Why does the rad flow top to bottom as most of the time it isn't doing that? 
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- Northern Bongolow
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Re: Design Fault
me thinks that when the stat opens this part of the circuit has the largest bore pipes with the highest pressures,the pump shoves it round the circuit, and the thermal rise in the engine/head also assists.
plus if the rad is doing its job it should cool as it enters,and cool is heavier than warm so should fall and leave low. it only needs to do this when the stat opens as the temps are rising, at the other times enough heat may be lost in other ways to allow the top of rad loop to cope by just circulating the hot coolant round the system,as in the warm up period.
maybe.
plus if the rad is doing its job it should cool as it enters,and cool is heavier than warm so should fall and leave low. it only needs to do this when the stat opens as the temps are rising, at the other times enough heat may be lost in other ways to allow the top of rad loop to cope by just circulating the hot coolant round the system,as in the warm up period.
maybe.
Last edited by Northern Bongolow on Wed Jul 06, 2011 1:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
- The Great Pretender
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Re: Design Fault
At what temperature does the rad start to flow top to bottom, and when is it fully operational? 
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- Northern Bongolow
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Re: Design Fault
that has to be the stat opening temp, and fully open temps hasnt it
quoting steve on the other thread 82 ish to 96 fully open..
quoting steve on the other thread 82 ish to 96 fully open..
- The Great Pretender
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Re: Design Fault
Assuming the stat needs 96c to be fully open to allow the rad full flow, how often do you think a clean coolant system would reach that temp under normal running?Northern Bongolow wrote:that has to be the stat opening temp, and fully open temps hasnt it
quoting steve on the other thread 82 ish to 96 fully open..
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- widdowson2008
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Re: Design Fault
Need to correct the 96 Ady quoted. 96 is where the head flow to stat is closed off. As binky quite rightly said, 110C is the FULL flow from the rad. (me and my gobThe Great Pretender wrote:Assuming the stat needs 96c to be fully open to allow the rad full flow, how often do you think a clean coolant system would reach that temp under normal running?Northern Bongolow wrote:that has to be the stat opening temp, and fully open temps hasnt it
quoting steve on the other thread 82 ish to 96 fully open..
Sorry - carry on the pair of you. This may get interesting
Steve
- widdowson2008
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Re: Design Fault
As previously mentioned, the 96 should read 110 FULLY open.The Great Pretender wrote:Assuming the stat needs 96c to be fully open to allow the rad full flow, how often do you think a clean coolant system would reach that temp under normal running?Northern Bongolow wrote:that has to be the stat opening temp, and fully open temps hasnt it
quoting steve on the other thread 82 ish to 96 fully open..
In answer to your question, I wouldn't think it would ever get to that under normal driving conditions.
OK Mel, I bit
Steve
- Northern Bongolow
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Re: Design Fault
an idicator of when, may be when the fans are called in mel.
these only come in when the stat has lost the plot,so to speak.
switching point is 106.
these only come in when the stat has lost the plot,so to speak.
switching point is 106.
- mikexgough
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Re: Design Fault
ECU control of fans is "over 108 c" in the manual.....
50% ratio of G12+ type OAT coolant has a boiling point of 136c
to add few pence to the debate....... will follow more when I get to Silverstone tomorrow
50% ratio of G12+ type OAT coolant has a boiling point of 136c
to add few pence to the debate....... will follow more when I get to Silverstone tomorrow
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- missfixit70
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Re: Design Fault
That's the scavenge fan temp isn't it? (p 83 - cleaning fan - no 3)mikexgough wrote:ECU control of fans is "over 108 c" in the manual.....
Can't find it now, but I'm sure I found rad fan switching temps in the manual of mid 90's for low speed & 104ish for high speed (as well as being very similar in actual measured values on top hose on several bongos)
Re the coolant type, on my bonnet & most I've looked at it has a big yellow sticker that says "use ethylene glycol coolant for aluminium engines"
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Re: Design Fault
It's not where, but where the coolant isn't going is where I hope we are going..................widdowson2008 wrote:As previously mentioned, the 96 should read 110 FULLY open.The Great Pretender wrote:Assuming the stat needs 96c to be fully open to allow the rad full flow, how often do you think a clean coolant system would reach that temp under normal running?Northern Bongolow wrote:that has to be the stat opening temp, and fully open temps hasnt it
quoting steve on the other thread 82 ish to 96 fully open..
In answer to your question, I wouldn't think it would ever get to that under normal driving conditions.
OK Mel, I bit- where are we going?
If the bypass closes at 96c and gets to 110c before fully open it would be logical to conclude that the rad is not fully operational during normal running.
So is the top to bottom rad a bad idea?
As the flow enters the rad top chamber then out to the degassing tank any debris can fall out slowly filling the bottom chamber or cores, or both with crud. This over years creeps towards the outlet blocking more and more of the radiators cores. The Bongo's excellent cooling capabilities compounds this problem by rarely calling on full flow through the rad.
It is then when asking the system to give 100% it cant
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Re: Design Fault
missfixit70 wrote:That's the scavenge fan temp isn't it? (p 83 - cleaning fan - no 3)mikexgough wrote:ECU control of fans is "over 108 c" in the manual.....
Can't find it now, but I'm sure I found rad fan switching temps in the manual of mid 90's for low speed & 104ish for high speed (as well as being very similar in actual measured values on top hose on several bongos)
Re the coolant type, on my bonnet & most I've looked at it has a big yellow sticker that says "use ethylene glycol coolant for aluminium engines"
& to say Kirsty check this thread...!?? http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... =3&t=50252
Don.t mind me!!
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- widdowson2008
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Re: Design Fault
Think you may be changing the rules mid discussion here a bit Mel.The Great Pretender wrote:widdowson2008 wrote:The Great Pretender wrote:
Assuming the stat needs 96c to be fully open to allow the rad full flow, how often do you think a clean coolant system would reach that temp under normal running?
If the bypass closes at 96c and gets to 110c before fully open it would be logical to conclude that the rad is not fully operational during normal running.
As the flow enters the rad top chamber then out to the degassing tank any debris can fall out slowly filling the bottom chamber or cores, or both with crud. This over years creeps towards the outlet blocking more and more of the radiators cores.[/color]
Crud build up will obviously make the system inefficient, but we started out talking about a clean coolant system didn't we?
Steve
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francophile1947
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Re: Design Fault
I don't think so. TGP is asking that to see how often the rad will get a good throughflow to stop it clogging at the bottom. I've felt my bottom hose a few times and don't think the thermostat opens much at all, because the hose is rarely more than warm, indicating that most cooling is done by the heater rads and top of the main rad.widdowson2008 wrote: Think you may be changing the rules mid discussion here a bit Mel.
Crud build up will obviously make the system inefficient, but we started out talking about a clean coolant system didn't we?
John
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- widdowson2008
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Re: Design Fault
Ahhhhhhhh - penny drops
However, I think the stat does open (mine does anyway cos I can see it on the TM-2) but only a very small amount, allowing a trickle through the rad. So going back to Mels point, he is probably right.
Personally, I don't think you are going to get the bottom hose more than luke warm cos if the rads doing its job properly then by the time coolant gets to the bottom, it will (should) have lost most of its heat don't you think?
However, I think the stat does open (mine does anyway cos I can see it on the TM-2) but only a very small amount, allowing a trickle through the rad. So going back to Mels point, he is probably right.
Personally, I don't think you are going to get the bottom hose more than luke warm cos if the rads doing its job properly then by the time coolant gets to the bottom, it will (should) have lost most of its heat don't you think?
Steve




