Which method to try for fixing the Fuel Gauge?

Technical questions and answers about the Mazda Bongo

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sigreen99

Which method to try for fixing the Fuel Gauge?

Post by sigreen99 » Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:03 pm

Hi all, just looking at the first thing we want to fix up on our bongo which is that the fuel gauge isn't working. From reading the post it looks like it could (fingers crossed) be as simple as a bad earth.

Looking at : http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... 57#p329986

it seem that we can either run an earthing wire from underneath the tank or access it from above through the hatch. Just wondering if anyone has any advice about which method to try or which has better chances of long term success. our van is unconverted at the moment so if i'm going to try the 'hatch method' how easy is it to get at without buggering up the interior?

Thanks in advance Si
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westonwarrior
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Re: Which methd to try for fixing the Fuel Gauge?

Post by westonwarrior » Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:12 pm

both are reasonably easy and its a case of each to their own.

I would go for the top method but I have been lucky and not had to do it.
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Doone
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Re: Which method to try for fixing the Fuel Gauge?

Post by Doone » Thu Sep 15, 2011 9:16 pm

Pick the method that suits you best, both are equally successful.
Allans Garage retired. Try PGS (Plymouth Garage Services) or Mayflower Auto Services Plymouth
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daveblueozzie
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Re: Which method to try for fixing the Fuel Gauge?

Post by daveblueozzie » Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:03 pm

No difference in the result whichever method you use, both work and that's the beauty of the little job, you choose the one that's suits you.
Lost without my Bongo.
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dom_e
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Re: Which method to try for fixing the Fuel Gauge?

Post by dom_e » Fri Sep 16, 2011 1:41 pm

I chose the crawl underneath and add a new earth option. It's worked a treat.
I drilled a fresh hole in the lip of the tank and cleaned it to create a good connection. I used some spare 15amp black cable and crimped connections with eylet loops on the end. This perhaps isnn't the most robust option). For the chassis fixing end, I had the same setup and found an easy to reach, non-structural bolt (a bracket holding soemthing relatively light) somewhere close to the tank connection.

The tank end was held on with an M5 hex bolt and nut with a spring washer. The eyelet connection on the chassis end was bolted using the nut that held one part of the bracket on.

I also re-waxoiled the lot and secured the wire with a ziptie to prevent it wobbling around too much.

All works well, but I suspect it'll need doing again at some point as the wires vibrate and the crimp fixings break.
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