dead roof
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- nicstrike
- Tribal Elder
- Posts: 517
- Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 12:44 pm
- Location: west cornwall..bongoland!!
dead roof
actually , dead bongo. does anyone have any ides how to pop the top on a "dead" bongo? i would be keen to try and get the roof up on a non-runner (no electrics either) in the middle of a brakers yard with just basic hand tools and no power. i managed to undo the rear mounts of the roof board but could only move it a fraction with my shoulders. i drew a blank at that , short of a 12" petrol disc cutter but i dont think the yard would be too keen on that!
Re: dead roof
Without power and with the motors bolted in position I can't see its possible to achieve with out removing the AFT.
If the motors have been unbolted and the rope is still in position used to pull it down, then it might be possible to slide the ropes around the AFT to the rear and then to pull the carriages backwards, and hence raise the roof - purely guess work never tried of course!
If the motors have been unbolted and the rope is still in position used to pull it down, then it might be possible to slide the ropes around the AFT to the rear and then to pull the carriages backwards, and hence raise the roof - purely guess work never tried of course!
Geoff
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
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- Tribal Elder
- Posts: 652
- Joined: Fri Aug 06, 2010 1:33 pm
- Location: n.e. derbyshire
Re: dead roof
Geoff , did i not read a post on here some time ago about powering a roof with a battery and one of these ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-PP1-AU ... 0564166948?
pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item20ba46f924 ?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-PP1-AU ... 0564166948?
pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item20ba46f924 ?
Re: dead roof
You may have read about someone unplugging the motors and powering them directly from 12 volts, but as the OP says he won't have power on site, so that will rule that out. But yes that might be a solution.
Using the Automotive Tester when it is connected to a 12 volt source to check 12 volt items is also fine, applying the tester to a 5v volt microprocessors inputs is not listed in the recommended procedures ! The Module has 16 external pins - 4 of them (the large ones ) will happily handle 12 volts as they are the relay/motor connections, the other 12 connections are inputs and outputs to the electronics of the module, try them at your peril you may get lucky, but I'm not sure what you will learn
...... click the Orange box in the diagram below for the details of the circuit;

Using the Automotive Tester when it is connected to a 12 volt source to check 12 volt items is also fine, applying the tester to a 5v volt microprocessors inputs is not listed in the recommended procedures ! The Module has 16 external pins - 4 of them (the large ones ) will happily handle 12 volts as they are the relay/motor connections, the other 12 connections are inputs and outputs to the electronics of the module, try them at your peril you may get lucky, but I'm not sure what you will learn


Geoff
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
Re: dead roof
Hi Geoff - good work there with the AFT module.
Any idea why it's looking for a tacho signal? I know it is recommended to run the engine when moving the roof, but it still moves, slowly, with the engine off.
Any idea why it's looking for a tacho signal? I know it is recommended to run the engine when moving the roof, but it still moves, slowly, with the engine off.
Re: dead roof
Dave, no real idea at all
It drives the Interrupt line of the micro so its obviously considered to be an important signal in terms of response time. Being masked programmed at manufacture there isn't a way to read out the program either. My own guess is that if it sees that the vehicle is moving then it stops raising/lowering operations, but I've not tried this out to find out if its so!

Geoff
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
Re: dead roof
I've driven into camping pitches whilst raising the roof as I do it (handbrake on one 'click') to annoy VW owners, so moving doesn't stop the roof going, but it does change the rate of the beeping.
Are you sure that's a tacho input, not a VSS input from the speedo line? That would make more sense as it could be used to modify the 2J output to the sound warning system.
Are you sure that's a tacho input, not a VSS input from the speedo line? That would make more sense as it could be used to modify the 2J output to the sound warning system.
Re: dead roof
That makes sense as well, no problem with that at all.
The output from the Tacho comes from the 1D pin on the Instrument Panel;

the Tacho unit is shown as only having 4 connections two from the input sensor, supply rail and what I can only assume is the Output as it feeds multiple other circuits ! There is no ground shown on the unit, but not having inspected the unit it might not be needed or merely an oversight on the drawing (remember there Wiring Diagrams - not Circuit Diagrams). As is so often the case, we can only make educated assumptions about some of the features as there is nothing documented as to the why and how!
As ever if any body has any modules there prepared to loan to me I will happily inspect and draw out the circuits and then return. But I prefer to work on spare modules rather than on the only working ones I have in my own vehicle!
The output from the Tacho comes from the 1D pin on the Instrument Panel;

the Tacho unit is shown as only having 4 connections two from the input sensor, supply rail and what I can only assume is the Output as it feeds multiple other circuits ! There is no ground shown on the unit, but not having inspected the unit it might not be needed or merely an oversight on the drawing (remember there Wiring Diagrams - not Circuit Diagrams). As is so often the case, we can only make educated assumptions about some of the features as there is nothing documented as to the why and how!
As ever if any body has any modules there prepared to loan to me I will happily inspect and draw out the circuits and then return. But I prefer to work on spare modules rather than on the only working ones I have in my own vehicle!
Geoff
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
2001 Aero V6, AFT, full side conversion.
Re: dead roof
It may be possible to lift the roof if the motors are not dead.If you get access to the roof comtrol box,this is on the drivers side just to the rear of the stowage box (one screw).The control box is held onto the body work by one screw and my with luck be removed via the stowage box area.If this carnt be done then either remove the lower body panel or cut it if the scrappy lets you.
There are 2 plugs into the control box.The smaller one has just 4 wires going to the control box,2 of the wires black and red I think supply 12volts to the selecting relays.The other 2 wires take 12 volts and earth direct to the motors.
If you make up 2 leads with spade lugs on them and connect to a 12 volt battery you can operate the motors if they are working.
Applying the 12volt one way will drive the motors upwardly suplying the 12volts the other way round will drive the motors in a downwards direction.
If you are luky and the motors work you can unlock the roof this way.
Once it is unlocked you can lift the roof enough to reveal the carriers on both sides.
There are 5 allen bolts which secure the carrage to the lifting arms,if you remove these 5 x 2 bolts the roof is disconected from the motors and can be lifted.
Its verry heavy and props must be used.
If the motors dont work then you have a bigger job in hand.
If you search through the site the roof was unlocked by someone by pulling on the carriage from the inside.
Hope this helps.
mrsam
There are 2 plugs into the control box.The smaller one has just 4 wires going to the control box,2 of the wires black and red I think supply 12volts to the selecting relays.The other 2 wires take 12 volts and earth direct to the motors.
If you make up 2 leads with spade lugs on them and connect to a 12 volt battery you can operate the motors if they are working.
Applying the 12volt one way will drive the motors upwardly suplying the 12volts the other way round will drive the motors in a downwards direction.
If you are luky and the motors work you can unlock the roof this way.
Once it is unlocked you can lift the roof enough to reveal the carriers on both sides.
There are 5 allen bolts which secure the carrage to the lifting arms,if you remove these 5 x 2 bolts the roof is disconected from the motors and can be lifted.
Its verry heavy and props must be used.
If the motors dont work then you have a bigger job in hand.
If you search through the site the roof was unlocked by someone by pulling on the carriage from the inside.
Hope this helps.
mrsam