OH DEAR WHAT DAMAGE HAVE I DONE

[Colin H F]

Update it has been stated on here that it needs to be presure tested at 200psi I dont think gaffer tape would surfice , what I have done this morning is, thoroughly cleaned the area, cut a piece of plastic the same thickness as the cut and applied aroldite to the cut and pushed the piece of cut plastic into the cut and then applied more aroldite over the whole lot gonna leave it till I ring Mike at wheelquick and see what he says, if the worst comes to the worst then its not the end of the world, this is on the same page as the fluid.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-Bongo-R ... 500wt_1180
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-BONGO-R ... 500wt_1414



and Rita I haven't started the van since this happened, bit frightened to

[jaylee]

Update it has been stated on here that it needs to be presure tested at 200psi I dont think gaffer tape would surfice ,

No No No..... Just on the rear heater housing plastic top section... Not the AC evaporator....! I think another evaporator maybe in order.....?

[Colin H F]

Ah me thinks I understand now so its not the cut to the shell thats done the damage Ive gone deeper into the evaporator, I wonder if these are sold seperately or are they a sealed unit!!!!!

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

[Simon Jones]

A complete replacement unit would probably be most cost effective solution, such as this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-BONGO-R ... _500wt_922

Two important factors:

1) There are two types: manual or electric control. If you've got digital display on the dash, then it's the latter.

2) At some point between 2000 - 2002 the design of the connector underneath where the A/C pipes connect changed so you cannot mix and match. Ian recently dealt with such an issue, so it would be worth chatting to him first.

Have a read of the comments towards the end of this thread:

http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... 15#p560374

[Colin H F]

whats going on here same photo different prices and different eBayers !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261072148903? ... 49#ht_791w


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290774142269? ... 500wt_1414

[jaylee]

Ah me thinks I understand now so its not the cut to the shell thats done the damage Ive gone deeper into the evaporator, I wonder if these are sold seperately or are they a sealed unit!!!!!

http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

Yes indeed.... The real fiddle is replacing the evaporator... I think more so with a conversion in the way..
There are a number of clips that hold the top & bottom section of the housing together. (the ridge half way down.) Plus you may find a vertical flap that adjusts the heat.. The fan housing towards the back will uncouple & separate from the main section with the evaporator & heater matrix...

Here is a diagram of what's inside the unit seen from the drivers side.... In principle they work the same way manual or automatic... http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... no=.html#2

I think where you made the fatal cut is in the casing just below where the screw 76-445B hangs in the air on the diagram over the main housing where the evaporator is...? The evaporator composition just being a "soft alloy" of some sort..?!!

As Simon says, make sure the compatibility is correct when hooking up to the AC pipe work...

Personally replacing just the evaporator this way would be easier than messing with the heater matrix too & disturbing the coolant system into the bargain....

[Colin H F]

Its hard to see, apart from taking the clips off to remove the top casing, but once off how is the evaporator held in and coupled up :!

[jaylee]

From memory i think it held in place by the design of the housing & the bolted pipework underneath.....? That's where my knowledge falls down, i only ever opened up the housing to repair the heating control flap that kept jamming & clean it all out, then sort the dodgy spindle to the flap poking out the top on my manual set up..

I'm sure there are some AC peeps on here done a full replace & recon though...?!!

[Colin H F]

FOUND THIS JAY
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

Fortunately my side conversion is not too bad to take out, the hob and sink unit is a stand alone screwed to the floor jobby so tomoz I will investigate further, before getting on to Mike, thanks again for all your help, just one thing more will I be able to drive it without doing further damage providing I dont use the rear heating

[jaylee]

FOUND THIS JAY
http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

That's for the front....!!

This is for the back.... Part 61-P10 http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... o=.html#17

[jaylee]

Or same part number but the schematic is closer to your vehicle year.... http://lushprojects.com/bongopartsmk2/c ... mgno=.html

[jaylee]

just one thing more will I be able to drive it without doing further damage providing I dont use the rear heating

If you are not loosing coolant? Which i don't think you are... Then the van is drivable... You can still use the rear heater.. It's just the AC that's damaged!! A leaking AC system will not cause an overheat..!

[Colin H F]

UPDATE. I have been onto Mike at Wheelquick and they don't touch the air con /ac units, but said he would get me the part if I showed him what part it is , he said I would have to go else where to get it re-gassed so today I will take out what's necessary to gain access and see what's what, any one know some one in the Liverpool area who deals with vehicle AC units cheers Colin

[Colin H F]

OK so removed the furniture and side panels and have taken some photo's it would appear that my assembly comes out from inside as you can see the two brackets with the bolts on the near side of the unit, also the the underside is is a fixed part of the body. if there are clips halfway, down holding the top of the casing, you cannot get to them without lifting the unit, and to do that you will have to remove the two sets of pipes from underneath, presuming one pair is the coolant, and the other pair are the ones connecting to the evaporator, and it looks like there are a couple of bolts that hold it down, so apart from the electrics and the said bolts, what else will have to be removed.

[Simon Jones]

You'll need to remove the grey side panel. Disconnect the ducting up to the ceiling vents. Remove two bolts from the brackets on the floor. Underneath there are a handful of 10mm nuts to undo, plus 2 coolant pipes & 2 bolts holding the A/C pipes. Also a couple of electrical connectors & you should be able to leave the mechanical cables to the control panel intact.

Once you've got it out, treat the metal with anti-rust treatment & the foam gaskets will be shot, so consider making some new ones from foam rubber or a sheet of neoprene.