window switch testing

[ProfDave]

short of finding a bongo friend; can someone point me in the direction of info on the pin connections for the switches on the passenger and drivers door. I want to check that the switches are working OK before pursuing other faults like relays; passenger one has been fine today until it would not go up (so I direct wired it to close)

Drivers only acts to isolate passenger window (I think it has no live feed but I want you use my multi meter to look at each of the out pins in turn to see the switch s OK too)

thanks Dave

[Titan1995]

Hi....window lift problems are normally due to a crimped wire on the drivers side.

The loom gets a bit crushed after years of use.

I have had to repair mine twice since I had Boris. Last time I added a "Stent" wire, all seems ok now.

[ProfDave]

thanks; wanted to check out the function of the switch too to make sure it's ok; I figured could do this with a multimeter but am not sure what pins should connect to which!

[Jaws]

Almost always a broken wire between driver door and body. I have no idea which colour to look at but have repaired about six so far

[Diplomat]

It is not unknown for the switches to be the problem.

They are not very robust and they act indirectly so the slightest damage to the plastic can affect the position of the slider below.

In the case of the passenger window, both switches 'talk' to each other. if one is slightly adrift the system becomes inoperative on the opposite side.

Add to this the fact that passenger window switches in either door are likely to have been given a good old heave or two during the course of their life by someone getting no response because the driver's side safety lock switch is on. After all, these cars are all second hand.

If it is a wiring fault, the balance of probability is that the driver's door loom gets more flexing over time, so probably worth checking first but after a quick check of the switches for physical damage. The switch panel releases from the back first, if you don't want to do too much damage finding out!


Frank

[ProfDave]

It is not unknown for the switches to be the problem.

They are not very robust and they act indirectly so the slightest damage to the plastic can affect the position of the slider below.

In the case of the passenger window, both switches 'talk' to each other. if one is slightly adrift the system becomes inoperative on the opposite side.

Add to this the fact that passenger window switches in either door are likely to have been given a good old heave or two during the course of their life by someone getting no response because the driver's side safety lock switch is on. After all, these cars are all second hand.

If it is a wiring fault, the balance of probability is that the driver's door loom gets more flexing over time, so probably worth checking first but after a quick check of the switches for physical damage. The switch panel releases from the back first, if you don't want to do too much damage finding out!


Frank

thanks both; think its in this case probably the wire in the door hinge; I stripped it out and at least closed the windows by direct feeding the motors.

what I wondered was if someone has a simple thread on testing the switches I assume there is power in and an earth and then pins which switch to live and earth dependent on up down and 'rest'

I think I might have a combination issue (lack of power to drivers side and a faulty passenger up)

I will strip the passenger switch today as its raining

thanks again Dave