diy central locking and electric window closer.

[windywatson]

Hi all,
My central locking fob has bitten the dust. After long hard search, found only option is to purchase after market central locking kit. The new alarm has the ability to also close electric windows if left open.
Question is this, is there anyone out there retro fitted a day kit and if so have they also wired in the electrics to close windows and flash the indicators? If so can you help with any details on wiring it in, so that I can take advantage of all of the facilities it can offer. And also cut down the time its going to take me to figure it out if at all I do.

Cheers.

[NathM]

if you had remote locking before then you already have a motor in the drivers door so its just a case of setting up the alarm as a 2-wire control method, usually involves connecting a wire to ground and another to a fused positive to create a 12v pulse, indicators are located internally in several positons by drivers kick or knee panel, (click on the relays and follow to the flasher realy, drivers side kick panel, black/green and black white) the problem with controlling windows is you'll need some fairly heavy duty wires running into the door which need to be fairly fleixible too!

Nath

[Tony x]

I've installed remote central locking in a few vehicles.
Often, if wiring in the central locking looks hard to work out, it's easier to buy a universal fit central locking motor (about £10), wire that up to the alarm and install the motor into the door. This set up can work well.
I've fitted an aftermarket central locking motor into the passenger Bongo door - it was a little tricky but not too bad and a lot easier than removing the standard item (which was struggling and is still in the door working in tandem with the new motor)

[nickiniquity]

I've almost diy'd in my alarm, and had (as yet unimplemented) grand ideas about auto-closing windows too.

For the remote window closing, you can mostly get at everything you need inside the driver-side door You need to emulate the operation of the driver's window switches. I was intending to use a 4-pole change over relay inside the door, which would be operated by the window-close output of the alarm. 2-poles of the relay would be dedicated to each window motor. When activated, the relay will disconnect the windows switches from the motors, and then apply voltage of the correct polarity to close the windows. (amazingly Maplin have a suitable 4-pole relay at a reasonable price, code N10AW, or you could use a pair of 2-pole ones)

You would need two extra wires going into the door, a trigger for the relay, and a power wire for the windows active when the ignition is off. The latter is the most tedious (as it will be hard to get through), or you could move the existing power windows fuse to your leisure battery.

The only slightly worrying part is that the window closing operation has no safety mechanism to guard against inadvertent trapping of fingers etc. (My other car has 'full closure' as standard, and has pleasingly over-engineered torque sensing arrangement to reverse the rising glass!)

You can also use the same method to auto-fold the mirrors!

Nick

[NathM]

Going about it wrong, most vehicles have '1 touch' closing and thats the feature that you want your alarm to control, most of them use a bimetal switch to deactivate power when the windows closed (by overloading them), just throwing power into a relay to 'force' the windows is a recipe for disaster and will burn out your motors, even basic window closers use timers (usually coupled with strips) which you set for the minimum amount of time possible to minimise loading of the wiring. Alarm outputs are usually only a pulse which in turn controls a window closer unit, as most compact alarms lack the required space to incorporate the heavier guage cabling and overload switches needed.

Nath

[mikeonb4c]

I've not seen Jaylee on here for a while but I think he DIYed his very effectively. Check his old posts