Roof strut Replacement help

[Paulinwales]

Had a go at changing the roof struts to SGS up rated ones (by 15kg for roof rack)
Took off driver side, could not even compress the sgs one with my 85kg weight. I could with the the old ones, Hence I can't get it on, as it requires compression of about 2cm. I Tried to put the old one back nut no luck. I can compress it, but not in the position it needs to be to get it to line up into the hole. When i try and get it in the hole i can't hold it compressed. It's a bad angle anatomically. Is there any method to make this easier that I am missing? I can't work out how to do it, as the strut is too powerful, and needs holding compressed. even if i push the roof up both stuts are too long and the roof material stops it going further. Do i have to take the roof material off some how?

Please help as bongo is on drive with roof open with wood supporting the roof and air brace in place (telescopic pole). I tried with a neighbour for about an 2 hrs this evening to do it. I would have thought the struts would have been adjustable with a screw mechanism to adjust length and tension properly seems a silly design.

any ideas anyone?

Paul
PS i don't think the new struts would lower as with an experiment i tried with the new one in place I wedged it and tried to close the roof and it moved slightly and would not budge. I read elsewhere another guy did the same thing and roof would not close after trying this out.

any tips advice gratefully received. I am tempted to cut the strut down a bit on the non gasses side and re-thread? anyone been here before and solved the problem?

Thanks in advance

[dave_aber]

I can't remember how exposed both ends are when fitted (and I'm not going outside to put the roof up!) - but can you loop a ratchet strap right over the strut end-to-end, and compress and hold it with that?

[rita]

Are you not a wee bit worried about putting too much stress on the roof motors?

[dave_aber]

With a rack fitted, there is more weight pushing the roof down, so the motors work harder lifting the roof, and less hard lowering it.

Uprated struts (as long as the extra pressure correctly matches the rack weight) help the roof raise, and take load off the motors. They then work harder lowering it, but only as hard as a standard setup, with no rack and standard struts.

It does sound like they are significantly higher force than the originals - however they may well have been leaking a bit over the years, so are less strong than they once were.

[Paulinwales]

Thanks dave i had not thought of that

[dave_aber]

I've been watching Wheeler Dealers too much - Edd China is forever using ratchet straps for this sort of thing!

Might be a bit of a trick to keep it from slipping off the end, but a suitably placed tywrap may be the answer...

[rita]

I suppose If you get the Balance correct it should be ok, this is the bit that would concern me...


could not even compress the sgs one with my 85kg weight

What Weight is it Going to take to compress the struts?

Maybe you should contact the supplier before you go much further, if you start to alter the struts your guarantee will be void.


Good luck.

[Paulinwales]

with a bit of thought and application i managed to make a 3 pulley paracord system ( so I can pull down) I envisage putting the lower bolt in first then tensioning then putting the top bolt in. I'll have to cut the paracord to release but I can live with that. I have not tried it yet as it's raining but i can pull the much harder sgs struts in with this system on my own so it should work

I'll post pics if I get it to work

Paul

[Paulinwales]

spoke to SGS they didn't seem to think most people had a problem fitting the struts. They recommended taking both off and possibly the roof tent if restictive. Will comment as I solve the prob to help others.

STep one get the old strut back on, add all the roof racks, v bars etc and see how I go

[dave_aber]

Just a thought - when you put the roof up, does the beeping stop?

If so, then it's hit the top limit switch OK, so that's as high as it should go. I'd have thought if the tent was tight, and the roof was a smidge too low, then the limit switch wouldn't make, so the beeping wouldn't stop.

[Simon Jones]

Just a thought: the new ones aren't from the later style roof which has a higher lift? If you compare old to new are they the same length?

Be careful if constructing a DIY compression device using ratchet straps and the like in case something slips as a compressed gas strut could do a lot of damage to anything or anyone it comes into contact with.

[Paulinwales]

All done, roof goes up and down perfect. I used the pulley system in the end and attached bottom stut first as the tension pulls the ball joint screw pat 90 if you don't do it first. Pulley allows me to shorten with one arm and then use friction just to let it extend to where it needs to go. Bit fiddley but doable. No more pushing the roof up and worrying about the motors been strained.

I did them one at a time using a telescopic pole to brace once up. Note all the roof rack had to be on first.


Paul

[gordie]

Just a thought - when you put the roof up, does the beeping stop?

If so, then it's hit the top limit switch OK, so that's as high as it should go. I'd have thought if the tent was tight, and the roof was a smidge too low, then the limit switch wouldn't make, so the beeping wouldn't stop.

Do you know where the top limit switch is located?
I'm a week into owning my bongo and the beep doesnt stop when the roofs up

[g8dhe]

All the limit switches are on the two upper rails. The Fully up switch is at the rear (can't remember if nearside of offside), the two fully down switches are at the front (two for safety), the stop in the middle whilst lowering is in the middle.
The following diagram might help;

[gordie]

Thanks for that I'll have a look tomorrow if the snows gone