12S wiring and ATF Oil

[GowerOsprey]

Evening all

I've recently fitted a towbar to my Bongo and took the Pater's caravan away on the weekend without it falling off, which was a bonus I'm sure you'll agree.

After wiring up the lights successfully, I was left with the 12S socket wiring, which I haven't done yet. After enquiring with a local garage with some knowledge of Bongos, they suggested running the wiring under the Bongo in a protective sheath or under the carpets. Does anyone have any better suggestions, or preferences based on their own experiences?

I have been advised that it is worth changing the ATF oil if I want to continue towing in the future, especially as it's now done 110,000 miles and I doubt it has ever been changed.

I'm going to buy a Pela pump or equivalent and do it this weekend, but my issue is that I have no idea what to look for when buying the atf fluid. I've scoured the previous posts on the forum, and came across two references, once stating that I need D-111 oil and the other pointing me here: http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive ... sector=Car. Is the latter the recommended one? There is a Miller stockist locally and am willing to pay for quality if it will keep my Bongo running smoothly for longer.

Two further questions: my horn and rear windscreen washer spray have stopped working; any thoughts on what I can do to remedy these?

Apologies if any of these queries are too vague, I don't really know what I'm talking about!

[Bob]

Dexron 3 (D3) or higher, about 4 litres according to the Fact Sheet.

I'd also fit an oil cooler, not difficult DIY.

The 12s socket will depend on what you need to run while towing, the 12n will run road lights etc so if you don't need to run the fridge or charge the leisure battery you could not bother fitting it, just rely on hookup.

[the1andonly]

1 cables from engine bay to inside car can be easily be done via 3 routes. open bonnet on left and right are 2 big gromments.make extra holes around the looms.
The passengers side is easiest to get to from both sides if glove box is removed. the side panels are easy to remove (pull in and up, better instructions available)
a white plastic cover is visible from the out but on the inside has a cut out (to be pulled off) in the black liner. This is used by some split charge systems.
2 Any Dextron 3 ATF will do, from cheapest to not so. I recently changed (with fuchs). use the pump to remove most but drop sump and clean sluge and magnet. well worth doing if not seen before)check leval before changing (search for method) I didnot. other posts state a simple changel will take 4.5l blow out cooler 7l, i added 5l

[Simon Jones]

definitely drop the sump, clean the magnet and filter. Should be done every 24,000 miles according to the factsheet: http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/member ... ts/atf.pdf

[GowerOsprey]

Thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated.

What's the best method for cleaning the sump, filter and magnet?

The1andonly, why do you mention checking the level before draining? And what's a blow out cooler?

Bob, where can I source an oil cooler?

With regards to the Pela Pump, I appreciate that I still need to remove and clean the sump, filter and magnet when replacing the atf, but if I use it to change the motor oil (which is due to be done) do I still need to remove and clean that sump as well, or will the pump remove enough of the old oil to negate this?

[Bob]

Hey Presto:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RX1572

Pretty sure mine came direct from Kenlowe.

http://www.kenlowe.co.uk/oil-coolers/au ... matic.html

[GowerOsprey]

Thanks Bob.

I'll have to wait until next month to get it, but the Kenlowe explanation has certainly convinced me I need one!

[Bob]

No worries.

I fitted mine on a Sunday morning. Remember you will need some extra ATF to fill the cooler.

[GowerOsprey]

Sorry to sound needy, but I can you push anyone on the best method for cleaning of the sump plug, filter and magnet? Is it just an oily rag or does it need to be cleaned with a solvent, or some other method?

Can anyone shed light on the comment by the1andonly that I should check the level of the ATF first?

Whilst I'm on it this weekend, thought I'd change the diff oil as well, but not really sure what I'm looking for. The datasheet says to purchase SAE90 GL-5, so when I go to a motor factors tomorrow to pick up the ATF (as helpfully advised in previous answers) do I just ask for this? Or are there variations? Would most motor factors stock this? Do you recommend a particular brand?

[Simon Jones]

All the details on the gearbox filter and magnet are in the factsheet in my earlier post. It basically solvent and rag respectively.

[GowerOsprey]

So it is, I hadn't read it properly, thanks.

I know I'm going to show my lack of any mechanical knowledge here, but what 'solvent' should I use?
When replacing the gasket the datasheet mentions using a 'sealant'; again, lack of any relevant experience leads to the question, what sealant?

Sorry to be a pain, but I want to learn as much as I can so that I can do this regularly from now on without having to pay through the noise for someone else to do it.

[Simon Jones]

For cleaning the filter, I'd recommend petrol or paraffin, and for sealant use gasket compound such as Hylomar or Hermatite which you can get from Halfords or other motoring shops / auto factors.

[GowerOsprey]

Thanks so much Simon.

Looking forward to getting my hands dirty on Saturday!

[GowerOsprey]

Morning everyone

As planned I got a load of stuff done on the van yesterday....

• Oil change (hooray for the Pela 6000!)
  Oil filter
  Fuel filter
  Air filter
  Atf fluid (another shout for the Pela!)

I finished off by draining the differential fluid and trying to get the centre section of the exhaust off. The exhaust defeated me due to the severe rusting on the bolts so left some penetrant on it overnight to try and loosen them and will have another go this morning. If I can't do it, I'll take to a garage to be done.

My question is regarding the differential fluid:
The rear wheels of the van are up on ramps, and after cleaning the drain plug (including the magnet set inside the nut) and refitting, I started adding the diff oil into the filler aperture, as per the instructions in the datasheet. After adding the first 1l bottle, I started with the second, but added about 0.6l without realising.

The datasheet recommends 1.4l only, so do I need to drain some out?

I had assumed that it would start coming out of the aperture once full, but there's no sign of it doing so yet. Could it be that because it's on the ramps then it's taken more than it should, and this excess will drain out if parked on a level surface and the filler nut removed?

I read on a previous post that if it takes more than the recommended amount then this might be evidence of oil in the shaft (I think that's what it said, I can't find the thread again!) and therefore a problem. Do I have a problem (apart from the obvious )?

Also, in the previously mentioned thread, there was talk of changing the oil in the transfer box. Does this apply to 2WD and 4WD, or just 4WD? (Mine's a 2WD) If so, can someone point me in the right direction and advice on how to do it?

I'll leave it on the ramps until someone is able to offer some advice. Thanks for looking.

[Gasy]

I'm no expert
But most of the auto boxes don't have a drain plug ( heard of the odd one having one)
Never heard of a filling nut ( I just poor it down the dip stick tube )
You sure your at the auto box

As for correct amount
You need to drop it off stands
Start engine move gear selectee through gears a few times
Leave engine running gear in park
Then read level off dip stick

Cheers