Remote central Locking.

[lukeeylu]

Hi,

I am new to the club so bare with me.

I picked up our ford freda yesterday and i LOVE IT! but i wanted to fit remote central locking to it.

Currently it does have central locking and i have a HAWK HA-008 remote kit.

Will this just work and just use the drivers door actuator for the signal? r do i need to buy an actuator? read conflicting things some do and some don't.

I would have thought as i already have central locking but only from the drivers door that it is a single point locking system?

[jimmo62]

Depends on the version you have. Early vehicles have central locking which is activated from the driver's door key which also locks the driver's door - so there is no actuator in the door and in that case you have to add one. I wrote a step by step guide on how to fit a generic actuator so PM me if you want a copy.

If you already have an actuator in the driver's door then you already have full central locking - I'm not sure in that case how you would connect to the existing controller, maybe someone else can help?

[bongodoodah]

Hi,

I've also got a 2002 Bongo, I'm sure it had a remote key fob but the dealer can't find it now. IS there a way to confirm that it had remote locking? Where is the control unit inside the vehicle?

Thanks
dave

[Simon Jones]

My '02 has it and I think it's pretty standard on the later models. This thread shows how you where the control unit is likely to be: http://igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/view ... te#p625345

[MX5Marc]

I've bought the same Hawk kit for my 2000 Bongo.

The central locking works currently by using the key in the drivers door - which in turn locks/unlocks all the other doors except for the passenger one (which is another project, at another time!).

I've tried twice now to fit the kit - and every time, I blow the number 1 fuse (which luckily seems to only affect the radio and interior lights.

On both occasions I will use the key fob, hear the receiver click - and the security light flash when locked, but nothing happens to the doors.

Reading this thread, presumably I need an actuator......

Any ideas why I may keep blowing fuse 1?
Earth is being connected to a bolt on the door - and I found a switched live on the window.

[g8dhe]

That fuse also supplies the unswitched power to the door controls;

and I found a switched live on the window.

Why do you want a SWITCHED power source for the receiver ? That is going to need to be fed from the same fuse above so that the receiver is powered at all times otherwise you will never be able to trigger it remotely ?

[MX5Marc]

The kit has a red wire to constant 12V - and also a white to the ignition output.

I've just realised that the constant 12V requires a minimum of 15 amp - and I'm connecting it to the central locking which is blowing fuse 1 (10 amp).

I'll need to find a different constant live.
Although that still doesn't negate the need for an actuator.

[g8dhe]

That 15 Amps will be if your operating several solenoids I would think, your only going to be operating one for the drivers door itself.
There isn't another unswitched supply within the door loom, so I would suggest you check first of all if you do have it wired up correct it seems odd, as everybody else who has fitted a door solenoid will have used the existing supply.

[MX5Marc]

I'll double check.
Thanks Geoff.

[bongodoodah]

Hi,

My dealer found my key fob . Only have one. Thinking of getting a used one, any idea how to reprogram? Is it even possible?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261502942941