Aircon /blower problems

[the1andonly]

The rod that actuates the various modes keeps on popping out of the white rotating thing
with me yet
I tried various ways to keep it attached
mark 27 required me to remove the white disk. not for feint hearted,

First question
when correctly fitted can you rotate the disk by hand and as such manually set the flap orientations.(rod out)
I have the electronic set up
Behind the disk are 3 rods that run in 3 tracks
any idea as to default positions to replace the ring
Ive tried front and down (position set by air flow and on settings)
I replace rod and change mode the actuator moves a bit shudders and time to turn off, the rods are not moving correctly in tracks.
Tried lush projects but cant find what i'm after.
just about to look in manual
any help/ knowledge out there
this may end up in the hall of fame of don't do this

[g8dhe]

There is this picture which might help;

[the1andonly]

on the bottom of the picture is the rod and clip holding the rod in place
in my case the clip does not exist and the rod pops out.(ie broken off in times past)
I have undone the central screw and removed the white rotating bit to drill a hole and create a way to clamp the rod in position.
My problem is in replacing the white bit with all the rods in the right tracks. (rods a t 12, 2, 9 o clock to centre and 45 degree
there is no info in hand book either.
I was hoping some other numpty has done this before.
Will eventually post some pictures

[wonkanoby]

seem to recall a hole being drilled about were clip was and a loop made of a cable tie

[the1andonly]

got a working solution if i could only refit it

[the1andonly]

well situation sor far
i need a cup of tea
with white "wheel" removed i can manually adjust the air direction to
screen
vents
down
vents&down
So far fitting the adjusting wheel i can get
screen
down
but in all positions permament front vents
may cut my losses on this one for today
at least the restraint has had a good work out

[blueskink]

I drilled a small hole in the small indentation/space behind the original arm. I found a flexible bit of plastic about 1mm thick and drilled it for a self tapper to go through. I had to file down what was left of the broken part so that it was just above level with the metal bar, when it was in its hole. Then with the right amount of washers, 6 I think, I screwed into the small first hole until it was sufficiently tight.

Heres a pic. Not pretty, but it works

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lfmh1soi60q1ksy/IMG_1017.JPG

[helen&tony]

Hi
I'm surprised no-one has mentioned ball-joint type servo quick-links?
Cheers
Helen

[Gasy]

Small hole and electrical tie wrap
Should sort it
But that's no help for this chap
The whole disc may need rotating ?

[mikeonb4c]

Hi
I'm surprised no-one has mentioned ball-joint type servo quick-links?
Cheers
Helen

These are handy little things. I still have a supply in my model aircraft spares toolkit. Need to decide if the metal rod can be threaded into the plastic balljoint socket or some suitable workaround sorted out.

[helen&tony]

Hi
Mike....
A new piano wire link, and use the solder -on threaded end, and use ball-joints that bolt on to the control surface...I only ever used metal links where possible.
Cheers
Helen

[mikeonb4c]

Hi
Mike....
A new piano wire link, and use the solder -on threaded end, and use ball-joints that bolt on to the control surface...I only ever used metal links where possible.
Cheers
Helen

Yup that's what I'd probably do though I prefer the plastic one piece ball sockets as you can thread the piano wire straight in and the socket won't rotate after it's been set at the best angle to the ball. Locking nuts not required. They always seemed good enough for the model helicopter guys and I can't recall ever seeing metal ball links though I'm sure they must exist.

[the1andonly]

Hi
I'm surprised no-one has mentioned ball-joint type servo quick-links?
Cheers
Helen

What do they look like?
http://www.sullivanproducts.com/ContSysAccMainFrame.htm

[helen&tony]

Hi
I can't see them there on that link....It was some years back that I dabbled....I did boats...I started amassing a lot of equipment/ knowledge of offshore racers with large engines / z-drives etc. Stuff that had a need for heavy-duty linkages....I was going to start dabbling again, but with jet engines/ ekranoplans but we left the UK
Anyway...the ones I was looking at were small rose-joint type...expensive, but certainly suitable on the Bongo heater, although as Mike says, a lot of the plastic stuff was good. The one thing that won't work is the plastic or metal type clevis, because of the throw of the rotary heater control plate....it has to be ball-joint or rose joint....both would make a more reliable job than the original connection, and adjustable!
Cheers
Helen

[mikeonb4c]

EBay item 151658060195 is Kavan type plastic ones I've used historically, but item number 262034633042 might be the all metal ones Helen is referring to. Silly eBay app won't let me copy url hence having to copy out item numbers.