Wynn's coolant system flush

[papillon555]

hi,
Just wondering if anyone has tried this and what your opinions are.

It says its acid free.

thanks

[Northern Bongolow]

i use their fuel injection system cleaners and turbo egr cleaners and they do what they say on the tin.

[Bongolia]

We use Wynns for flushing systems but find it sometimes needs a couple of goes if you are using it for removing corrosion and there is a lot of contaminant in the system. If you are flushing following oil contamination from a head gasket letting by or the like then we prefer Forte Rad flush as it does the job in one go.
It is a trade product but I have seen it for sale on Ebay.

[papillon555]

Thanks for the replies and advice.
Could someone please offer a second opinion on the directions given on the can;
It says to add coolant flush and run the engine for 10 minutes....
Obviously the bottom hose and stat opening takes considerably longer than this.....
What do you think?

thanks

[Bongolia]

This info is generic but I am sure someone will offer advice about the specifics of your vehicle. As you dont state what engine you have or the reason for the flushing. I am assuming it is because the coolant is contaminated or has corrosion evident and you have remedied the cause.
I dont know your level of expertise so if the following sounds obvious excuse this.
This is how we do it.
We do it in four stages ,radiator ,block,heater matrix(s), expansion tank.
First check for signs of leakage. if you need any additional parts this is the time to find out. sort out your antifreeze type and quantities you will need and order a new thermostat and gasket this is optional but if you are going to do the thing then you may as well change this at the same time. You will need to borrow or buy from Halfords or the like a coolant strength tester for your type of coolant.
Remove the thermostat and refit the cover, if it is of the type that uses the thermostat to retain the seal then cut out or remove the centre of the stat.
YOU SHOULD LOOK UP ON THIS SITE THE CORRECT METHOD OF BLEEDING AIR FROM THE SYSTEM THIS IS IMPORTANT ON CERTAIN BONGOS.
Refill . bleed out the system, leaving space in the expansion tank for the flushing agent. Add the flusher.
Having done that run it up to temperature with "rad cap" on.
Depending on the level of contamination we would leave it in the system on a medium idle (1500-2000rpm) idle for around fifteen minutes on the average,longer if heavily contaminated, blipping the throttle a few times,with heaters set on full heat and rad fan cutting in and out.
Operate the the heater,switching from cold to hot a few times during this process.
Switch off and allow pressure in tank to drop.
Carefully remove the cap to allow any remaining pressure to escape.Allow the engine to cool down until you can hold your hand just comfortably on the block without burning yourself.
Clamp off heater matrix hoses.and header tank feed.Remove top and bottom hoses at the radiator.
Radiator. Using a hose pipe flush the radiator initially from the top hose spigot and and then back flush rad from the bottom hose spigot .Do this a few times until it looks clean and no particles are coming out.
Now flush the block in the same way but holding your hand over the lower block coolant spigot to allow the block to fill and then releasing it. do that a few times until its clear and clean.
Remove the hose feed and returns from the heater matrix(s) and do those in the same way operating the valve from hot to cold during the process.
Finally the header tank,remove feed hose to block and rinse tank through.
Now is a good time to feely check all the hoses if in any doubt change them.
Refit the all hoses and refill with plain water, bleed, replace rad cap and run up to temp check for leaks once up to temperature.
Run for about ten mins on medium idle. Check for leaks.
Allow to cool down till pressure drops remove rad cap,
If all is OK then drop off the bottom hose and drain water.
Fit the new thermostat. refill system using the correct grade of A/Freeze mixed at a higher concentration to allow for dilution by the water in matrix's etc and re bleed using the recommended method replace rad cap.
Run back up to temperature and recheck for leaks everywhere!
Ensure rad fan kicks and heat is coming from the heater(s) and gauge reads normal.
Recheck level and take it on a road test then re check coolant level in expansion tank once it has cooled.
You will need to check the coolant strength afterwards and adjust it if required. If it needs adjusting draw the coolant out of the expansion bottle through the rad cap opening. You could use a kitchen baster for this or a push bike pump to suck the coolant out.
Dont worry too much is the mix is a bit stronger than it should be. The opposite is not true.
Keep an eye on the coolant level over the next few days.

There is a bit of discussion on this site regarding Anti freeze types and lifespans worth looking at those first.

[g8dhe]

Why do you turn the heating on/off ?
The coolant flows thru the heating matrix all the time, there isn't a valve on the coolant side at all, the heating control is on the hot air side with a flap adjusting the amount of air that flows into the cabin air stream.

[mikeWalsall]

Bongolia did mention ... "This info is generic but I am sure someone will offer advice about the specifics of your vehicle" ..

[g8dhe]

He did indeed!

[mikeWalsall]

Rather than hot / cold 'mixer flaps' .. it reminds me of the Old Fords .. BMC engines etc: that had a hot valve controlling the heaters heat ..!!

[Bongolia]

Papilon
This is the flush we use for oil contamination.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Forte-Bio-Deg ... SwdV1XOMDh

[Bongolia]

mikeWalsall
Those were the days eh
Still a method used today, usually solenoid operated now though.

[JoeC]

Thanks for the replies and advice.
Could someone please offer a second opinion on the directions given on the can;
It says to add coolant flush and run the engine for 10 minutes....
Obviously the bottom hose and stat opening takes considerably longer than this.....
What do you think?

thanks

Personally, I put the flush in and drove around for a few days to give it a good clean. Had the heating up full so it went through the heater matrix. Don't know if this is 'few days' is advised or not but that is what I did and not had any problems.

[JoeC]

Forte ... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORTE-BIO-DEG ... SwNSxVS1VC

[Bongolia]

JoeC Yes that is OK providing your system is good.
And here is the but.
If you have contaminant/sediment sealing up leaks, and that can happen, a flush is likely to remove these and if you are happily driving along unaware of this then you could have problems.
For a known good system with no signs of previous leaks and lightly contaminated or just changing the anti freeze at the specified interval a run on fast idle for ten minutes using the Forte flush is probably OK.
Although I would do this stationary with the hood up and be watching for leakage.

[papillon555]

wow...so many replies...thanks all.
I am not aware there has been any oil contamination all seems ok but the coolant is a bit brown and murky. So I was going to do a flush to remedy that.
I suppose my main concern by chemically flushing the system, is the possibility of compromising the operation of the thermostat if it is not removed before the process.
The full procedure, as kindly detailed by Bongolia, sounds very thorough and if at some point I have the time and access to the tools necessary, I will have a go.
With regards to not removing the thermostat and doing a chemical flush. What are the problems I should anticipate if I proceed?
Maybe I will just do a normal water flush and then coolant.
Can anyone envisage any problems 'backflushing' from the bleed pipe?

Many thanks again