Sniff test..

[Davehitch]

Hi all,
Any special routine a garage should follow when doing a sniff test for the cylinder head?
From cold or up to temp after the stat has opened?

Reason been my 2.5td has had a new radiator fitted by its previous owner and the engine bay (under bonnet ) shows pasr evidence of a coolent blow. Fine rust deposits you get from your cooling system.
I've done a few hundred miles in the van with no apparent issues other than a tiny loss of coolent, just enough to trigger the coolent alarm but only just so no emptying of the header tank., so little you couldnt really see any drop by eye. And the heaters have only ever ran luke warm

Ady recommended a check of all hoses which I have done, when cold no evidence of leaks. But when hot it's weeping from most hoses attached the the radiator, top, bottom and a hose attached to a metal pipe under the passenger seat so far.
I can't get the van to overheat or spue coolent, bottom hose takes about 45 mins to get hot and the stat opens ok so I'm hoping it's just poor workmanship and hoses causing the air in the system as it heats up? And nothing more serious, so plan of action new hoses to replace the non standard ones, but first a sniffer test to make sure there's no issues there?
Dave.

[rita]

Hi all,
Any special routine a garage should follow when doing a sniff test for the cylinder head?
From cold or up to temp after the stat has opened?

Reason been my 2.5td has had a new radiator fitted by its previous owner and the engine bay (under bonnet ) shows pasr evidence of a coolent blow. Fine rust deposits you get from your cooling system.
I've done a few hundred miles in the van with no apparent issues other than a tiny loss of coolent, just enough to trigger the coolent alarm but only just so no emptying of the header tank., so little you couldnt really see any drop by eye. And the heaters have only ever ran luke warm

Ady recommended a check of all hoses which I have done, when cold no evidence of leaks. But when hot it's weeping from most hoses attached the the radiator, top, bottom and a hose attached to a metal pipe under the passenger seat so far.
I can't get the van to overheat or spue coolent, bottom hose takes about 45 mins to get hot and the stat opens ok so I'm hoping it's just poor workmanship and hoses causing the air in the system as it heats up? And nothing more serious, so plan of action new hoses to replace the non standard ones, but first a sniffer test to make sure there's no issues there?
Dave.

If that is the case I would think it would be worthwhile Physically checking or replacing the thermostat.

[Bongolia]

Give it a good run before testing. Allow it to cool sufficient that the cap can be removed without spewing out contents, then test. A belts and braces method is after the sniff,presumably using a gas analyser, then a chemical block test, the garage will know what that is but it has a liquid that reacts with combustion gases to turn the fluid a different color usually from blue to urine yellow, it is possible to gauge , to a certain extent, the level of breach,if any, by the shade it turns.
If OK I would swop out hoses and stat and check that the correct clips are used when refitting, they should be spring clips and not "jubilee" type to allow for expansion and contraction.
And it probably goes without saying make sure it is refilled with the correct AF and bled correctly.
Good luck.

[Northern Bongolow]

i would do the fan control switch above the starter motor in case its running a little hot, with a lazy stat and a bad fan switch control sensor, i would also for peace of mind do the water pump if you have not already done it.

most bongo heads when they go only open up a crack when hot, they often pass a cold crack test, do you sniff test as advised above, hot.