Hi gang - this is a product we discused some weeks ago - well, I eventually bit the bullet and ordered a kit. It took about 10 days - and arrived in quite a large, flat package - and heavy.
Today I decided to fit the kit - quite straight forward to do - there are 3 bits to go in the cutouts under the bonnet lid - the easy bit.
Then, lift up the seats, there are shaped pieces to go under each seat - I first removed the existing pads so the new ones would stick to the metal seat base - then the original pads went on top of the new ones.
There is a special pad that goes over the engine, and under the housing, retained with ties.
Then, two pads for each footwell, plus a bit over the transmission tunnel - these pieces are not self-adhesive, so easy to place in position.
The final four pieces are intended for the front door skins - two each side. I decided I didn't really want to disturb the polythene sheet on the doors, so haven't fitted these bits so far.
When I took the Bongo for a test run, the difference was very noticable - a whole lot quieter - the road noise from the tyres was all I really heard.
I'm definitely impressed - £200 well spent, in my view. The website is:-
http://www.noisekiller.co.uk
Mike
Noise Killer soundproofing kit - well pleased !!
Moderators: Doone, westonwarrior
Noise Killer soundproofing kit - well pleased !!
Curator of the Bridgwater Motorbike Collection


That sounds like good value for the higher mileage users.
A cheap and cheerful fix is buying the sound proof rolls from accessory shops. I pay £10 a roll and two will be enough for a bongo. It wont be as easy or as effective though. I have also used bonnet insulation from scrapyards before. Fireproof and very cheap.
If you do a DIY kit the important thing is to keep airflow around the engine at a maximum - it is easy to get engine temp up with a bit of careless insulation.
A cheap and cheerful fix is buying the sound proof rolls from accessory shops. I pay £10 a roll and two will be enough for a bongo. It wont be as easy or as effective though. I have also used bonnet insulation from scrapyards before. Fireproof and very cheap.
If you do a DIY kit the important thing is to keep airflow around the engine at a maximum - it is easy to get engine temp up with a bit of careless insulation.
- dandywarhol
- Supreme Being
- Posts: 5446
- Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2005 10:18 pm
- Location: Edinburgh
I e-mailed Noisekiller asking whether the engine blanket in their kit would affect cooling or airflow in the engine compartment. They did not respond to the question, and so I assumed that the answer was actually yes. But I'm not convinced that an engine blanket over the top of the engine would be a problem: the turbo could be affected, but is water-cooled. The fan is sort of at the bottom, blowing up at an angle. Would it still cool the engine compartment properly?
David
Dereham, Norfolk
David
Dereham, Norfolk
I think it would - yes - the blanket is a fairly chunky made-up mat type thingy, with 4 holes for tie wraps, although the ones they provide weren't long enough, so I had to resort to putting 2 together in each corner to fix it in place.
Although there isn't loadsa room between the engine and the cowling, there seems to be enough room for air to flow - but I will watch the temp gauge like a hawk until I'm satisfied all is OK.
I can't see any other way of insulating that bit - you couldn't stick it to the cowling as the handbrake mechanism, etc protrudes, so I imagine if anyone had had problems before, they would have altered the design.
Mike
Although there isn't loadsa room between the engine and the cowling, there seems to be enough room for air to flow - but I will watch the temp gauge like a hawk until I'm satisfied all is OK.
I can't see any other way of insulating that bit - you couldn't stick it to the cowling as the handbrake mechanism, etc protrudes, so I imagine if anyone had had problems before, they would have altered the design.
Mike
Curator of the Bridgwater Motorbike Collection

