Power management system to charge external battery

[thedogsbollox]

I have an inflatable boat that i use an electric outboard with for fishing. This is powered by a 110AH Liesure battery.
I am going to use the charger in my Power Management box to charge this. I figure if i cut one of the wires feeding one of the batteries and put a switch in there that will switch the juice to either the battery as it was, or to a female Jack plug next to my PMS. Fit another female Jack plug next to that, attached to earth and that should be that. Red and Black plugs and maybe different sizes to stop me putting the wrong way round. Then make up some red and black leads with Male Jacks on one end and battery clips on the other.
The problem i have is, there is a minefield of switches and connectors out there and i don't know which ones i should use.
Would somebody be kind enough to point me in the right direction?
Tony

[dreamwarrioruk]

use din sockets tony then you cant get mixed up.
could have a cigarette type for one and a din for another

see c0205 etc on this link http://www.motorcaravanning.co.uk/shopu ... aptors.htm

can get an adapter for a cigarette to din socket ie co209

[thedogsbollox]

use din sockets tony then you cant get mixed up.
could have a cigarette type for one and a din for another

see c0205 etc on this link http://www.motorcaravanning.co.uk/shopu ... aptors.htm

can get an adapter for a cigarette to din socket ie co209

Nice one, i like it. Will 16 amp be ok then?
Any suggestions for the switch? The PMS has 2 outputs for the LB and MB. I want to split the MB line and put a switch to switch between the MB and the Din socket.

[dreamwarrioruk]

why do you need a switch, its only gonna complete the circuit if you plug it in, im not sure on the switch size you need. a lot are only 10 amps.

[thedogsbollox]

why do you need a switch, its only gonna complete the circuit if you plug it in, im not sure on the switch size you need. a lot are only 10 amps.

I figured i would have to have a switch to switch between charging the MB and charging the boat battery.
That way i could also see the condition of each battery on the meter in the PMS.
Are you suggesting just feeding the + of the Din by attaching both ends of the cut wire?
Wouldn't that be charging both batterys and giving a false reading of condition as one battery will be flat and the other full?

[dreamwarrioruk]

see what you mean. personally i wouldnt bother with a switch and just have the din socket so you can plug the external battery in. at end of the day 12.6v is 12.6v and if needed you could just bridge the terminals with a multimeter. unless youve got room to mount another switch. also if you put it into the mb circuit that should be pretty well charged up by the alternator when you arrive on site.
when i said most switches are 10 amp i was referring to 240v theres a selection one this site , also with din sockets etc.

http://www.the12voltshop.co.uk/Shop/tog ... -e889.html

[g8dhe]

The DIN connector (DIN 4165) is good idea but be aware that the plug will be LIVE either from the battery to be charged or from the charger itself and that the terminals are exposed .....
A couple of links that might help regarding the plug;
http://www.erich-jaeger.de/images/pdf/d ... 65_d+e.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cigarette_ ... receptacle

A switch isn't a bad idea, as it will allow you isolate the exposed plug leads if you put the plug (as opposed to socket) to the charger typical examples would be;
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... rotary.php remeber that you need to be able to switch quite a high current, I would go for something higher than 16 Amps, and also remember to fuse the circuit for the gauge of wire used (you will need quite a thick high current wiring) as I suspect it might be at least a couple of meters long ?

[dreamwarrioruk]

i knew you would be along with your usual good advise geoff.

[g8dhe]

Only just got back from our travels since the Bash Have been on the forum from time to time, but neverquite sure what the signal was gong to be like.

[madmile]

You could link it to the 'car' ie starter battery setting as I cant think of many instances where your starter battery is low or indeed needs charging. Also, bear in mind that the charger can give a charge of up tp 18 amps max.

[Diplomat]

I use Cannon XLR series 3 pin connectors. Although designed as studio quality audio connectors they are happy up to 20 Amps or so.

I don't use the "middle" pin. There is no convention for wiring them as power connectors but they are robust, uncrushable and used in the logical sense i.e. power coming from the holes and being picked up by pins, in emergency or lash up situations bare wires can be poked into the holes to get some volts.

I currently have a Maplins box with four XLR outlets plus red and black 4mm binding posts which sits between the driver's footrest (auto box) and the engine housing. This is fed with extremely heavy duty muticore twin cable direct to the battery via fusible links at both terminals and not with one side going to chassis earth.

One of these outlets serves a temperature sensing amplified relay to save the 3 way fridge from overcooling and consuming too much battery reserve power.

A popular alternative is the Anderson power polehttp://www.andersonpower.com/products/s ... ctors.html

But they have never appealed to me as much as the XLR3
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector


Frank