Bongo Fury

OK, so having established my driverside window switch is duff, and botched a repair together using 2 duff switches, (cost of new switch £160 PAH) I managed to get the right signals for the AUTO drivers switch, the passenger switch is beyond repair but the isolation switch works and the passenger door switch works. However I still have no power windows.

Are you following me ???

Its unlikely both motors are duff, so the obvious culprit could be the drivers door wiring loom.

So how to take the door apart ?

Does the door panel just pop off ?

Am i likely to bugger up any clips in doing so ?

Another option, has anyone ever just had the windows stick through no use ?

My new bongo was sat for 12 months under a sticky sappy tree, and when i got it it took days to get it all off the paintwork, so could the glass just be stuck solid to the rubber trims ?

HELP, my Bongo is a Springer transporter, and having no windows is not an option.

Worth checking the window isn't gunged up & stuck & the mechanism is ok. to get the door panel off, look at the remote central locking factsheet.
Any breaks in the wiring loom will probably be in the bit that flexes & held in thr brscket between the door & frame, works just as well & bends less if you take it out of the clip.
Replacement switches can be got for a lot less than £160 (you can get then for @£100 new) from other Mazdas, 323 & MX3/Eunos I think are direct swap, others will fit with a bit of messing about, look in the compatible parts list at the top of techie section, They can be got for a few quid.

I had a similar problem with drivers side switch. Mine was rectified taking the switch out and spraying WD40 on to the contacts, basically gunge had just got in. I too was ill prepared for £160!! Might be worth a try if you have not already done this

The switch, and the spare that was chucked int he glove compartment, were both a bit too for gone for wd40, both the relay and the sliding pots were dead. Luckily, being an electrical engineer, i can get my hands on some bits at work, but only enought to get 1 switch on 1 of the units working.

Confident if i strip the door down, i can get to the bottom of this.

Looked at the central locking factsheet, and my door looks different behind the handle to this one. mine has a section of cable terminating in an unused connector block, could be why i have a non working remote locking blipper, the plot thickens.

If it's like mine, you don't need to strip the door down. The black earth wire in the loom between the door and frame had broken - a very easy fix indeed

This may help you Springer...? http://www.igmaynard.co.uk/bongo/forum/ ... +door+loom I've seen so many innocent switches unnecessarily butchered for the sake of looking at the loom first....