Coolant system & radiator overhall

[Paulinwales]

Recently bought a bongo and wanting to take it to the alps this suimmer so getting it ready
The radiator overfill -header tank? has k seal in it (brown) so suspect a leak and the hoses are original 1995 jobs

from my reading i was thinking of doing the following.

I was thinking of replacing the 5 main hoses via ava leaisure deal ~ £75
getting an OE radiator ~ 90 (2 year garantee)
New mazda genuine part thermostat £16 - some issues around non standard ones
while i am there a new water pump at around £30

Should this be sufficiently vigorous for the job? do I need to replace any other hoses - there seems to be millions
is it ok to use OE waterpumps?Does it make sense to do this with the radiator off?

I know I need longlife coolant 50/50 ethelene glycol coolant. But when I look on the net /on halfords they don't tell you the chemicals it's red coolant or some brand name coolant so what do i buy and is it 13 litres i need?

I also need to get some clips from hadyn aswell as apparrently this counts

I have read there is an auto transmission oil connction with the radiator (somewhere on the bottome) do I need transmission fluid as well to topup/replace while i'm there? when you disconnect a pipe does it all fall out? Have read the radiator article and sounds a bit scary!

Have I listed all the things there i need as would hate to start and miss something out? especially when I won't be able to drive.

are there any other pipes to replace? I have seen some down the driver side is it ok to use cheap coolant pipe for some straight sections of auxilary pipe?

I have read around and tried to collect all the info in one place for others

rgds Paul

[Northern Bongolow]

i would add to the list with the fan/switch sensor,as it controls the main cooling fans, and via the ecu sets the cold start relays on the fuel pump, and the auto box monitoring (for lock up)glow plug temp sensing/control is also done via this part so an important cheap part. fit a gen mazda one though in my opinion.

[wonkanoby]

5 main hoses via ava leaisure deal

whats the 5 th one?

I also need to get some clips from hadyn aswell as apparrently this counts

are they silicone or original...he has clips for silicone ones

[321Away]

Dont believe the hype! the rad change on these cars is one of the easiest i've come across, simplest and cleanest way of changing the rad i've found is to do it from the top of the vehicle at the front and remove the transmission cooler pipework at the offside inner wing , leaving the rubber hosing connected to the radiator, if you pull the pipes very slowly and let the excess oil dribble back,you get minimal spillage, plug the ends as you remove the rad and you can empty/collect it on the bench before you switch the pipes over to the new rad. depending ton the replacemnt rad you've got, you might have to point the transmission coolant pipe connectors in the right direction and nip them up. *REMEMBER* to remove the rubber feet from the old rad and fit to the new unit before refitting cos its a pain afterwards!

The only other pipes that can be problematic are the metal ones but they are some SERIOUS grief to change so dont get involved til you have to!

Water pump swap out is irrelevant of the rad as they're no where near each other the only advantage is draining down and refilling/bleeding only once,the water pump is not that difficult if you get the vehicle raised at least a bit,but doing it on the floor could be grief, doing the stat from underneath once you've removed the tray (to do the water pump) is easier too.**NOTE** before you dive under the car to get the stat out,remember to remove the 10mm bolt that holds the dipstick tube in place or you'll have to climb back out, a small thing but a pain in the bottom!

Northern Bongolow, the fan switch is cheap?!! only ever used genuine mazda ones and theyre just under £50!! serious rip off!!

Total cooling system capacity is 13 litres so unless your buying premixed stuff you wont need that much,more like 6 litres

Julian

[Northern Bongolow]

cheap in relation to a new head was the point i was trying to make. point taken though.

[mikeonb4c]

And what about all this suspicious rust staining? Has the engine got any historical issues lurking? I hate to say it, but after the work is done (which maybe should include engine temp monitoring via Mason or TM2, and should also include an LCA) I would advise biting the bullet and putting it through some trials in hilly country, loaded up, so it can prove itself nearer to home before relying on it in the Alps (carry spare 50/50 coolant mix with you in case). If a bad thing has to happen, better it happens close to home. If it passes, you should feel much more confident about your trip.

Sorry if I'm being over-wotsit about all this but best speak out I think

[Paulinwales]

can anyone advise how to flush a radiator?

Do i put the flush in with the k seal gunk in the overflow tank run a bit and dump?
or empty coolant, flush with hose, fill with water,run add flush stuff then dump or mix in coolant first?

cheers Paul

[francophile1947]

I'd be inclined to dump the coolant first, especially with all that "gunk" in it - then use the flush, followed by the hosepipe. Don't forget to remove the thermostat before flushing, as it will let the water flow right through.